Posts Tagged ‘cabernet sauvignon’

Vineyard Variation

The first day of harvesting was a true eye opener for me.  Being in the field is something that can only be experienced, not read about.   I think one of the most important things I learned during that day was that all parts of a vineyard are not created equally.  Aside from my back hurting and my feet and legs being sore, I was able to notice (in flying colors) that grape quality varied from row to row, top to bottom, and side to side.  Of course I have read about this in books, but seeing it with my own eyes made it come to life.

“What could cause this variation?”, I asked to myself.  In my head I decided to go over all the factors that could have contributed to the this: steepness of slope, soil composition, exposure and vine type all came to mind.  Just in one vineyard alone, all of these factors showed their faces.  For example, when we began to harvest Cabernet Sauvignon.  Cabernet is a grape that prefers gravely and well drained soils.  At the top of the this particular slope existed the healthiest grapes for two reasons.  One, the soil here had a high proportion of rock and gravel.  Two, the hill was steeper at the top then at the bottom.  As I made my way down the hill I noticed that soil was beginning to turn more clay-like and the steepness also had decreased as well.  Water from the top of the hill would trickle down into flatter  clayey soils of the bottom and in effect hamper the quality of grapes.

The same principles can also be applied to the Sangiovese grape.  The steeper hills high in composition of a soil type called galestro, produced better grapes.

The Merlot was a little different story.  This grape prefers more clayey soils, so where there was a higher percentage of rock and gravel, the Merlot was not at 100%.

Of course there are other factors that play a role in determining grape quality, but I was able to feel the effects of soil composition the most.  Sometimes there is just no good explanation of why some vines do better than others.

Here are some pictures of a particular row of vines.  You will be able to see the variation from vine to vine

1: Short, compact and healthy

1: Decent quality bunches, can be a little tighter

2: Fuller and larger

2: Fuller and larger

3: Pretty much perfect

3: Pretty much perfect

4: More clusters here, but there is some rot and dry spots

4: More clusters here, but there is some rot and dry spots

5: Really nice bunches

5: Really nice bunches

6:  About half of this cluster was dried out

6: About half of this cluster was dried out

7: A little more dryness

7: A little more dryness

8: Not looking so hot...

8: Not looking so hot...

9: Getting better

9: Getting better

10: Now that's sexy!

10: Now that's sexy!

11: More nice bunches, but not as compact

11: More nice bunches, but not as compact

12:  Hard to tell, but quantity and quality are diminishing

12: Hard to tell, but quantity and quality are diminishing

13: Loose, small and low quality

13: Loose, small and low quality

14: More low quality

14: More low quality

Surface Area 51

So I recently had to opportunity to eat some ripe and ready wine grapes.  This has been a craving of mine for a very long time.  I have tasted hundreds of wines but never an actual wine grape ready to be crushed.

grape clusters 001

Can you tell which is which?

In my wine class I was presented with two grape bunches just picked from the Frescobaldi Estate.  My teacher, Diletta Frescobaldi is one of the current owners of the Frescobaldi wine enterprise, so she had no problem takng some grapes from the vineyards.  One of them was Cabernet Sauvignon and the other Petit Verdot.  Without knowing which was which, it was pretty easy to determine their identities just from sight.

Cabernet Sauvignon grapes usually  make a dense, dark and tannic wine.  All of these attributes mainly come from the skins.  The berries of this cluster, were very small and tightly packed.   Flavor on the palate was  sweet, medium acidity but with a thick skin.  The one flavor that stood out was a strong green pepper taste.  Italian Cabernets tend to develop these green pepper nuances, especially wines in the north. The Petit Verdot berries were much larger and not densely packed.  On the palate they were much more acidic and less flavorful.  The skin was also not as thick.  Both were just down right delicious and only wish you could find these regularly in the store.

The reason for Cabernet Sauvignon’s high tannin content is due to small size of the berry.  Think about it.  The ratio of  skin to pulp is higher in smaller berries than it is for larger ones so the resulting wine will have less juice  for the same amount of tannin. This is partly the reason  for Cabernet’s high tannin content in conjunction with its thick skin.

225 liter barriques

small oak barrels

The concempt of  high surface area to volume ratio is also used when aging wine.  Traditional French barriques hold  225 liters.  Other wooden vessels can hold 1000′s of liters. It is up to the winemaker to decide the level of oak influence.  When wine is aged in small barrels, the surface area of wine exposed to the oak is significantly higher than that of larger barrels.  This can be a problem when the wine is left to age for too long.  The oak can dominate the flavor of a wine and the balance is completely thrown off.  When done right, French/American barriques can impart delicious sweet spice flavor to a wine as well give the wine a nice softness and roundness.

big and small barrels at Altesino Winery

big and small barrels at Altesino Winery

The traditional method of aging wine in wood is done through the use of the bigger barrels, like the ones to your right.  These are the vats where the Brunellos are held prior to bottling at the Altesino Winery.  These larger oak barrels because of their low surface area to volume ratio impart subtle oak flavors and tend to leave a rougher, more rustic style of wine.

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