Posts Tagged ‘champagne’

The Science of Bubbles

Grape-ShotThis post might get a little geeky, so readers beware…

If you remember from the last post, I talked about the second fermentation that occurs in the bottle for the Methode Champenois.  It is in this fermentation where the magic happens and where carbonation is produced.

I hope we all know the equation for alcoholic fermentation by now: sugar+yeast—–>alcohol + CARBON DIOXIDE (CO2).  CO2 is  linear molecule looking something like this :  O=C=O.   2 carbon dioxide molecules are produced for every molecule of sugar during fermentation.  The CO2 molecules float to the top(because gas is less dense than liquid) and get trapped between the liquid and the enclosure.  Eventually enough CO2 will cause the pressure to increase in this space.   As the pressure increases, so does the solubility of the CO2. The concentration of molecules increases and more wind up back into solution(more and more are coming into contact with the surface of the liquid).  The molecules are essentially forced back into the liquid because this will best relieve the pressure that has been applied to the system.  Henry’s Law states that: The solubility of a gas in a liquid is directly proportional to the pressure of that gas above the surface of the solution;  the higher the pressure higher the solubility.

When CO2 is forced back into solution some of it does not remain as CO2, it is  changed to carbonic acid by attaching itself to a water molecule.  The molecular formula is H2O + CO2 <—> H2CO3.  Carbonic acid is important because it gives champagne a noteworthy “zing”.

champagnecelebrationThe pressure inside a champagne bottle is very large, and is roughly equal to pressure in a tire of an 18 wheeler.  For this reason the bottles are made of thick glass and have a large bell or punt at the base(that indentation on the underside of the bottle).  CO2 does not like to be trapped inside a bottle its like a prison for those little guys.  When the pressure is released by popping the cork, the CO2 rushes to the top.  This is known as effervescence and the smell of the erupting CO2 can be quite beautiful.

When you pour champagne in a glass you will notice some strings of bubbles streaming from one or several parts of the glass.  This stream of bubbles is called the  perlage.  Some people think that the more or less you have of these streams of bubbles the better your champagne is.  Well that is totally false.  The streams of bubbles occur because of small defects on the surface of the glass.  These defects trap the tiny carbon dioxide molecules and the gas bubble begins to grow until it expels gas.  This process repeats itself until you have a stream of bubbles.  So essentially, the more streams you see, the cheaper your glass is.  The most important thing to look for in bubbles is the size.  In this case, the smaller the better.  Smaller bubbles make the wine feel creamier and more elegant on your palate.  Take for example club soda, these bubbles are large and aggressive compared to those of fine champagne.  I don’t know about you but after all this champagne talk, I am gettin pretty thirsty.

The Cost of Champagne

Rose_Champagne_BubblesMost Champagne that we know is pretty expensive.  Its hard to shell out 80-100 bucks for a bottle bubbles when you can buy 3-5 bottles of still wines for the same price.  I am not going to try and rationalize the cost of a 500-1000 bottle of Champagne, but I want you guys to get a better feeling of how champagne is made so that you can understand where your money is going.

First I want to talk about the region of Champagne.  This is the most northerly wine producing region in France and really pushes the envelope for the cultivation of grapes.  It almost gets too cold to the point where the grapes can not ripen. It often rains, limited the amount of sunshine and warmth that reach the vines. Late Spring frosts are a killer and are the most dangerous.  The weather is unforgiving, and the decrease in yields sometimes adds the cost of a bottle of Champagne.Verzenay_moulin

So here are the steps for the Methode Champenois:

Step 1 : The grapes are harvested like any other wine, pressed and fermented in large stainless steel or glass vats.  Some producers use 225 liter barriques such as Krug, Bollinger and Vilmart for this fermentation.

Step 2:  5-6 months later the wine is ready for blending.  Non-vintage champagne is a blend of about 40-50 wines from as many as 10 different years.  This part is crucial because this it what gives the champagne their consistency in taste year after year.  The blending technician is very skilled and knows exactly the percentages of which wines to blend depending on the current years organoleptic qualities.

Step 3:  After the wines are blended in a vat, a liquer de tirage is added to the wine.  This blend is a carefully mixed quantity of mostly liquid sugar and yeast.  The sugar and the yeast are what allow the second fermentation to take place in the bottle.

Step 4: After the addition of the liquer de tirage, the wine is bottled and capped.  If too much sugar was added in the liquer, the bottle can explode, champagne caveand if not enough, their will be no carbonation.  Remember the equation for fermentation is : sugar + yeast—->ethanol + CO2.  After the bottling they are laid on their sides in chalk caves  so the 2nd fermentation can take place.  During this period the yeast die in a process called autolysis.  The dead yeast cells sink to the bottom imparting yeasty, bread-like aromas to the wine as well as complexity. The bottles must be left in this position for at least 15 months for non-vintage and 3 years for vintage champagne.

Undegorgierter_Champagner

Her you can see some of the dead yeast cells

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Step 5:  So what do you do with all these dead yeast cells?  Their is a long andChampagne-Remuer sometimes laborious process called remuage.  This is when the dead yeast cells are coaxed into the neck of the bottle.  Back before the use of machinery, a man called a remuer, would turn and angle every

bottle of champagne a little downward every day into a vertical position.  A top remuer can riddle 40,000 bottles per day.  Some houses still use a remuer but they are very costly and time consuming.   Most houses now use a girasol.  This a piece of machinery  holds about 500 bottles and replicates the remuage process.

Step 6:  Now that the bottles are in a vertical position some 12 to 20 weeks later it is time to remove all that sediment that has accumulated in the neck.  One method called a la volee, uses the pressure inside of bottle to force the sediment out after the enclosure has been removed.  The other and more common method is called a la glace.  In this method the neck of the bottle is dipped into a freezing brine solution.  This freezes the sediment and when the enclosure is removed the ice shoots out.  This process is called degorgement for obvious reasons.

Dosage_Champagner

Machinery to add the dosage

Step 7: To replace some of the wine that has been lost during the last step, a measured amount of sweetened wine is added to the bottle.  This mixture is called the liqueur d’expedition and is what gives the wine some residual sugar and house flavor. Next the champagne is topped with the mushroom cork a wire cage and is ready for shipment or storage.

As you can see it is not easy to produce champagne.  I forgot to mention that the caves where the champagne is stored are carved from the chalk soils that run 20 feet into the ground.  The chalk provides the perfect storage temperature for the wine.  By capturing heat during the day and radiating it during the cold nights, the internal temperature remains constant.  I hope this has helped you to appreciate champagne in a different light.

Next: The science of bubbles…

A Little Diddly on Champagne

ladycorkI think that a lot of people love Champagne but don’t really know what they are talking about when they say the name.  Most of the sweet stuff that we pour after dinner is not Champagne, but a cheaper alternative that has nothing to do with Champagne at all.  The grapes are different, the region of production is different, and the vinification is different.

When I say Champagne I am talking about the sparkling wines that come from the wine producing region in France called Champagne.  These wines are not made with Champagne grapes as some might believe, but are made with two black varieties and 1 white variety.  The reds are called Pinot Noir and Pinot Muneir.  When a Champagne is made with only black grapes is called Blanc de Noirs.  The white variety is Chardonnay and when a Champagne is made with only this varietal the wine is called Blanc de Blancs. There are also blends between red and white varietals and Rose Champagne exist as well.

Another common misconception is that Dom Pierre Perignon was the inventor of Champagne.  This is totally false.  He did however help to improve the quality of sparkling and still wines by  selecting only the best grapes, developing pruning techniques and finding the optimumDom-perignon conditions for harvesting.  He actually tried to STOP the second fermentation that takes place in bottle!  This is totally ironic because this second fermentation in the bottle is the basis of the Methode Champenois.( I will discuss this method in the next post.) Good thing he did not succeed.

All Champagne are sparkling wines, but not all sparkling wines are Champagne.  Sparkling wine that is produced in Champagne with the Methode Champenois is called Champagne.  Other Methode Champenois sparkling wines produced outside of Champagne are called Cremant in France.  Examples include Cremant de Loire, Cremant de Burgogne, and Cremat de Alsace.  In Italy there is sparkling wine produced with the Methode Champenois and it is called Franciacorta.  These wines coincidentally are made with Chardonnay, Pinot Muneir and Pinot Noir.  Another famous Methode Champenois wine is from Spain in teh area of Penedes.  This sparkling wine is called Cava and is produced with Spanish  and French varietals.  Parellada, Xarel-lo and Macabeo being the Spanish and Chardonnay of course the French.  These wines are cheaper alternatives to to Champagne and can give you a better bang for your buck in some cases.  Methode Champenois sparkling wines are also produced in America and Australia.

Next up: What is the Methode Champenois(Champagne Method) and why is Champagne so  expensive?

What’s in that Bottle?

Gerry S. was wondering, “the purpose of different bottle shapes for different wines!? like the deeply concave base for red wine?”

Wine bottles come in all sorts of sizes and shapes.  The shape of the bottle usually communicates which region the wine is from and the grape varieties used.  This holds mostly true with wines from France, where each region by tradition uses a different style of bottle.  There are roughly 6-7  examples of wine bottle shapes, but I will only discuss the most popular and most used.  There are three parts of the bottle one must also be familiar with: the neck, shoulder and punt.  The neck, I hope doesn’t need an explanation, the shoulders are litterally the part below the neck and the punt is the bottom underside of the bottle.

We’ll start with one of the most common bottle shapes, the “bordeaux” style.wine-bottle-bordeaux In Bordeaux,France, these bottles denote the use of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, and Malbec.  White wines which use this shape are made from Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadelle.  Bordeaux wines are usually long lived  which is why the shape came into being. After long periods of cellaring, these wines will produce a lot of sediment.  The steepness and height of the shoulders are able to catch the sediment when the wine is being poured.  The flat sides also allow the wines to stack and cellar comfortably.  This bottle shape is also used a lot in America and in Italy as well.

chablisThis shape, with a slightly wider base, sturdier frame  and gently sloping shoulders hails from Burgundy.  Bottles like this are filled with Pinot Noir (red) and Chardonnay(white).   These bottles shapes seems very elegant to me.   They don’t have sharp edges,  they look gracefull and seem to have a more feminine quality about them.  Pinot Noir and Chardonnay wines  are very elegant and round yet, can still deliver through a full body and an intense depth of  flavor.

Ok Gerry,  this is where the punt of the bottle comes into play.  The punt is the concave base at the bottom of the bottle.  Champagne bottles use the thickest glass and have the largest punts.  veuve-bottles-squareThe pressure in Champagne bottles is between 70 and 90 pounds per square inch.  That is about 2-3 times the pressure in your cars tires and about equal to the pressure in the tires of a double decker bus! The glass for this wine must be thicker, the base wider and the punt deeper.  The punt adds much needed stregnth to the bottle, this is the reason  why some bottles have bigger punts than others.  Here’s a good way to make money off of your friends.  Bet you friend that you can drink from a wine bottle with out opening it.  Now all you have to do is find a bottle with a large punt, pour water into it, drink and collect your money. Thanks Stephanie for teaching me this joke.  This picture also shows the range of sizes fr Champagne and other wine bottles.  The second one from the left is the standard .750mL.

Here is the last classic example of a wine bottle shape.  This shape comes from Alsace, France and parts of Germany and Austria.alsace-200x300 There is wide variety of wines that use this bottle and all of them are white and can range from totally dry to totally sweet. Pinot Gris, Riesling, Gerwurtraminer(GWT), Muscat, and Pinot Blanc are some of the common varieties.  This shape is longer, almost flat shoulders, sexier, and usually has a smaller punt.  This shape reminds me of a tall sexy girl with gentle curves and an essence of classiness, reminiscent of the wines in these bottles.

Sometimes the quality of a particular bottle of wine can be denoted from the the quality of glass used, but this is not true 100% percent of the time.  If you have no idea what you are looking for in a wine store do three things: first contact me, then ask your wine dude at the store, and lastly pick up and feel the bottle.  If the bottle feels heavy, has thick glass and a big punt you may have found a good bottle of wine.  Of course this is just superficial and a bottle like that could be pretty bad.  So there ya go, a nice little primer on wine bottle shapes.  Thanks Gerry!

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