Posts Tagged ‘chardonnay’

A Chardonnay Story

One of the best nights during the harvest was when Jurij Fiore invited  all of the harvest students  into his house for dinner.  His wife cooked up a fabulous meal and we shared many stories that night.

Chardonnay_grapes_close_up

These are not Jurij's Chardonnay grapes

One story that I will never forget was the one he told us about how he acquired his Chardonnay cuttings.  One year Jurij and his family were up in the Cote de Beaune  visiting an old friend.  Jurij was explaining to his friend that he wanted to start a new  Chardonnay project, just to experiment with a French varietal.  His friend assured Jurij that he would be able to get great Chardonnay cuttings for him, so of course Jurij agreed.

So one night his friend, snuck into a Grand Cru vineyard somewhere in Cote de Beaune and took  clippings from the vines, shoved them in a bag and threw them in the trunk.  Jurij was amazed that he did this, but wasn’t convinced that the cuttings would make it back to Italy.  Jurij took the bag, put them in his trunk and drove back to Tuscany anyway.

Miraculously, the cuttings survived the hot journey home and the grafting on to his current vines went rather smoothly with little loss.  Jurij was astonished that the grafts actually took.   Not only did they work, but they now produce what I believe is one of my favorite Chardonnays and possibly one of Italy’s finest.

Another interesting fact about his Chardonnay is the grafting method.  First of course there are American rootstocks.  Sangiovese was then grafted on the American rootstock and then the Chardonnay  was grafted onto the Sangiovese.  It’s no wonder  his Chardonnay is so great, each vine is a blend of te best wine producing countries in the world!   That is probably not the answer but it is kind of cool when you think about it.  This Chardonnay is so coveted that almost all of the bottles he produces is sold to one restaurant and one restaurant only, Enoteca Pinchiorri in Florence.  The owner, Mr.Pinchiorri tasted this Chardonnay at Jurij’s estate and fell in love with the wine.  He loved it so much that he made a deal with Jurij and Jurij’s father, Vittorio, that all of the bottles produced would only go to his restaurant.  (of course Jurij keeps some bottles for himself) So now the only way to taste the Chardonnay named ” I Richiari” is to go to Enoteca Pinchiorri or to be friends with Jurij.

Here are some statistics:

Altitude: 370m (1,210 feet) above sea level

Exposition : South west

Soil: Sandy- silty, very rich in stony fraction

Harvest time: End of September

Fermentation process: Grapes are cold macerated for a few hours and then soft pressed.  Fermentation takes place in 228 liter french barrels-50%new- with a max temperature of 19 degrees Celsius

Refining: “Elevage sur lie”(the wine stays on the dead yeast cells) and “Battonage ” ( stirring the lees)for the first 3 months.  The wines remain in the barrels for another 9-12 months.

Bottling: July

Bottle Maturation: at least 6 months

Number of bottles produced:  2003=600… 2004= 1200…2006=1165

I have been lucky enough to try this wine on 2 occasions and it continues to blow my mind away.  I was also lucky enough to receive another bottle as a gift for completing the harvest which I am extremely thankful.  OK so heres the tasting note from the first time I tried “I Richiari”.

richiari“I Richiari” 2007 13.5%
beautiful pale golden yellow color. A delicate nose that makes your mouth water. Soft fruit and floral components backed by some nutty aromas. Subtle high quality cream comes through on the tail end,outright delicious. A rich velvety mouth feel coupled with pure elegance is the signature of this wine. Lemon peel on the back end and the ripping acidity keeps it interesting and leaves you yearning for more. A huge finish leaves you with a sense of a lemon cream pie dusted with minerals. There is no feeling of excess oak or alcohol. This Chardonnay has it all: deliciousness,balance,elegance and harmony.  What a ride!

Food Pairing: Gently grilled lobster tails served on a bed of bitter greens, sliced and sauteed fingerling potatoes, with a dollop of avacado aioli.

Some Different Grapes and Styles of Wine

Tom N. has asked me to describe different grapes and different styles of wine in this question, “But what is the difference between a Pinot Noir, a Merlot, a Cabernet, a Shiraz, a Barbera, a Chianti , a Super Tuscan, a Barolo, etc? I honestly don’t know what is what or anything, so any insight would be appreciated. Also – what would you generally pair with a Chicken dish, a pasta dish, and a fish dish?”

The list that he cited encompasses a wide variety of styles, grapes and regions of production. I will only discuss a couple of examples in this piece

Pinot Noir- This is grape that is grown throughout the world.  It is made in both a New World style and an Old World style. It is lighter in color than most most red wines and also has a lower tannin content.  Tannins are the chemical compounds in wine that give you that dry feeling in you mouth when you drink red wine. New World styles tend to be fuller bodied and more  fruit driven.  Flavors include juicy fruits like ripe cherries and strawberries along with some smokey meat and earth aromas. If you want to get into Pinot you are going to have to shell out some bucks because good Pinot is hard to find for less than $20 now-a-days because of the movie Sideways.

Old Worlds styles are bit more restrained.  Usually light bodied and very complex, these wines are not for everyone.  Their aroma and flavor profile can include tart fruits like cranberries and sour cherries but also some smells that most new wine drinkers will not be attracted to at first such as barn yard, mushrooms, compost, spice, flowers, wet rocks and sweaty socks.  This profile is typical of Pinot from the Burgundy  region in  France.  These scents may sound a little crazy but I assure you that it is the truth, it is very distinct variety that has a a seductive quality to it. Some people describe Burgundian Pinot Noir as “sex in a  bottle.”  They are also some of the finest and most expensive wines in the world.

Cabernet Sauvigon- This is also a grape that is grown through out the world and represents the complete opposite from Pinot Noir in terms of style.  It’s home town is in the region of Bordeaux, but here it is blended with other red varieties to produce what most believe is a more balanced wine.  Cabernet wines are medium to full bodied wines with a very dark  color, almost ink-like texture and high tannin content.  Cabernet is also grown in New and Old World Styles.  A generic flavor profile includes dark  ripe dark fruits from black currant,blackberry, blueberry and black cherry with notes of tobacco, bell pepper, graphite and cedar.

For the food pairing part this is also a difficult question because it depends on how each is cooked and what type of flavoring and sauces predominate the dish.  Whites generally make a better pairing with white meats, such as chicken, fish, pork and veal.  Any red meat deserves a red wine.  Sauvignon blanc is great with a grilled chicken caesar salad and shellfish.  Muscadet is also perfect with delicately prepared fish and shellfish, a perfect summer dish.  Try Rieslings with Asian foods and a Gerwurtstraminer with spicy foods.  Chardonnay is great with cream sauces on chicken, veal and pork.  Depending on the pasta sauce a red or white can be a good compliment.  Any pasta sauce with meat in it is good pairing with a Chianti.(The term Chianti refers to the region in Tuscany where the wine is produced.  The grape that makes the wine is Sangiovese.  This grape is good at making food friendly wines because it has a medium body, restrained fruit flavors, mild tannins and good acidity.)  Try it with  aged cheeses and salamis as well.  Pinot Noir goes excellently with a nice rare tuna steak,  if you would like to try red wine and fish. Oh yeah, Cabernet Franc is a great food wine that I mentioned in the wine and pizza post.  This grape goes really well with an herbed grilled chicken loaded with parsely, garlic, rosemary, tyme and squeeze of lemon.  This is really great and easy to prepare summer dish with a great wine that most have never never tried before.

I hope I explained enough to give a little primer on this subject.  The best words of advice I can say are to try different styles of wines and find which one you like best.  Then after that, find another style then another.  The wine world is huge so don’t limit yourself to the same wines over and over again.

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