
old vines
October is a very special time of year in Tuscany. For the past week I have been at the Podere Poggio Scalette estate located in the Ruffoli Hills of Greve in Chianti. This is the renowned estate owned by the famous “Mr. Sangiovese” Vittorio Fiore. Vittorio is one of the most famous enologists in Italy having essentially created the consulting enologist position. He is responsible for turning Sangiovese from the quaffable jug wines into the rich, high quality Sangiovese’s we see drink today. Through vineyard manipulation and cellar management Sangiovese now has a place as one of the worlds best grapes.
However, the story here s not Vittorio, it is his son and winemaker, Jurij. Jurij is the most
humble, passionate, gentle, funny and sincere person I have ever met. Just being in his presence made me a better and smarter person. He is the type of guy that would just explain what he is doing without you having to ask. As long as he sees that you care and are passionate he will go to extraordinary lengths to give you everything he can.
17 years ago Jurij graduated from a viticulture and enology school in Burgundy. He is now a qualified Technicien Superieur en Vitocolture and Oenologie a Beaune. The Podere Poggio Scalette estate was purchased by his father in 1991 and the first vintge was bottled in 1992. From this point on Jurij has overseen the workings of this phenomenal estate. His talent and passion are evident in the quality of wine that he produces. These are “true” wines that are made in the vineyard not in the cellar.
Harvesting and helping Jurij in the cellar leaves me an overabundance of topics to talk about. I am dedicating the next week to the 2009 harvest. I want to talk about the cultural experience of working with people from different nations, the soils, vineyard management, vineyard variation, old vines vs. new vines, wine making techniques and philosophy, dinner, the wines of Poggio Scalette, and the 2009 vintage in general. Oh and I cant forget, the amazing video interview with Jurij. I will do my best to communicate to my readers everything I have learned during this past week. I hope you all will join me on this fabulous ride.
This is one of my favorite wine quotes because it is so simple yet undeniably true. It basically says that all wines are products of their environment. The weather where the grapes are grown ultimately determines the quality of the wine
produced that year. A philosophy that I ascribe myself to is that great wines are made in the vineyard, not in the winery. The reason why some vintages of a particular wine are better than others has to do with the weather of that year. In order to produce a great wine all factors in relation to weather must be in perfect balance. Most important are the day/night temperatures and the amount of rain that the vines receive. A perfectly balanced vintage along with other factors can create a wine that has the capability of living for
at least 20 years. In the realm of vintages, basically four types exist: balanced, too hot, too cold, and too much rain. However, we all know that the climate in California is going to be different than weather in France, so one must take into account that climate in a vintage is only relative to the location of where the grapes are grown.
