Posts Tagged ‘La Piantonaia’

A “Botrytized” Merlot Story

They say that some of the best inventions have come from accidents or mistakes, and the same thing can be said for the wine world.  This is a story that Jurij shared with us over the dinner we shared with him and his family.

I spoke about Mr.Pinchiorri in the last post and how he fell in love with Jurij’s Chardonnay, well the same thing happened with the Merlot.  Making a wine from Merlot was Jurij’s other experiment.  When Mr.Pinchiorri heard about this he immediately wanted in.    They made the same deal that governed the Chardonnay; every bottle that was produced would go to Enoteca Pinchiorri.

Here’s the tasting note for the Merlot called “La Piantonaia”

piantonia2005 “La Piontoanaia”

Intense ruby with purple rim, inky dark. You can almost taste the dark bright fruit on the nose.  There is a rich wild fruit aroma, very seductive. Chocolate and coffee notes come through on the tail end.  This is rich and brooding Merlot o the palate.  Elegant tannins marry well with the 13.5% of alcohol.  Once a gain the dark chocolate, vanilla and coffee notes come through on the long finish. I have never tasted a Merlot like this, very unique.

 

 

During harvest time, Mr.Pinchiorri is usually at Poder Poggio Scalette observing and keeping a careful eye on the yields of Chardonnay and Merlot for that year, yes he is a little obsessed and possessive.  In 2002, Mr. Pinchiorri was at a Formula 1 race and he insisted that Jurij delay the harvest of the Merlot until he got back, which would be in about a week.  During this week, Botrytis Cinerea( a fungus that dehydrates the grapes and concentrates sugars, a good fungus) attacked the majority of the Merlot grapes.  This was a huge problem because Jurij was no longer able to produce a dry wine from these grapes.  Luckily it was Botrytis that attacked the grapes and not black mold, downy or powdery mildew(these molds destroy grapes).

So what did Jurij do?  He vinified the grapes as a sweet wine, something like a Sauternes(a French sweet wine made from Botrytized grapes).  He then named this wine “Mai Piu”, which means “Never Again”.  It turned out to be a great wine, but for a wine maker, having a whole harvest of Merlot attacked by a fungus is not always fun, so this is where the name came from.

I believe that only 300 half bottles were produced of this wine.  We were fortunate  enough to have the opportunity to taste this wine at dinner with him.  The wine was amber in color displaying aromas of figs, raisins, nuts, and candied orange peel with a slight touch of petrol.  The palate was a good representation of the nose, but most importantly the wine was not goopy.  It still had a good amount of acidity to balance out the sweet flavors.  It was fabulous.  I mean how many people can say they have tried a “Nobley Rotted” Merlot before?  How many even exist?  This was an experience that will never be replicated again.

Vineyard Variation: Part 2

vendemmia 072

Here’s a question pertaining to “Reserve” and “Special Selection” wines.

Francesco,
Can you please comment on the subject of ranking wines specifically with regard to the use of terms like “special select” and “reserve.” Are these two classifications trustworthy and accurate? Is it always true that a “special select” version of a certain vintage is worth more/better tasting than its standard variety? Your thoughts please?

This ranking of wines is a legitimate practice, but it is also used for marketing.  This type of selection is sometimes done in the vineyard or before blending.  If you read the first post on vineyard variation you will see that not all grapes are created equal.  During the harvest the selection of the best grapes can be made and classified as a “special selection”, the second choice as their “normal” blend, and sometimes their leftovers can be sold off as bulk wine.

Reserve wines are a little different.    Reserve wines like Chianti Classico Riserva, Brunello Riserva and Barolo Riserva, just to name a few, are aged for additional years in bottle or in wood before being released compared to the “normal” wines of that vintage. Italy, and most Old World wine regions,  must meet government regulation for the aging criteria.  In the New World, Reserve means something more along the lines of a “Special Selection”, although you will see some wines labeled as Reserve.  These simply denote a different treatment, whether extra maturation in wood, a special selection of grapes, or longer aging in bottle before being released.  There are no government regulations, it is up to the producer.

At Podere Poggio Scalette, Jurij (the wine maker) has no “special selection” or “reserve” wines.  His vineyards are first vinified separately as to better express the terrior of each.  He then samples each vat after the fermentation.  The best vats are classified for his  Sangiovese based wine “Il Carbonaione.”  The vats that do not meet his criteria are sold to bottlers as Chianti Classico.

Jurij does not believe in having “tiered wines” from his estate.  He produces the best and settles for nothing less.  He does not agree with second or third bottling.  When you taste his wines you will know what I mean.  Jurij’s two wines were featured in the new edition of Wine Spectator, the 100% Sangiovese called “Il Carbonaione” and the 100% Merlot named “La Piantonaia.”  In the tasting note from the magazine, there was an unfortunate error.  La Piontonaia was labeled as Sangiovese, it is of course 100% Merlot.

Back to the question.  You will usually have to pay more for the reserve or special selection wines.  Are they better?  I mean its hard to say, we would like to think so, but sometimes the difference is marginal and not worth the extra dollars.  It is really up to your taste.  A lot of times the higher classified wines have a longer potential for aging, so the extra costs can pay off 10-15 years down the line.  My suggestion would be to buy their normal wine and their special selection from the same year, do a blind tasting and see which you like better.  Cheers!

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