Posts Tagged ‘pinot noir’

A Product of Your Environment

Hi Francesco,
I have a project that I have to submit for my class, and I’d like your opinion on one of the questions: Why is a Pinot Noir from Australia so different in style from a Burgundy Pinot Noir? I know the basic reasons for this (mostly due to the difficult/delicate nature of growing the grape itself), but would like to know what you think.

Thanks,
Joe

Thank you Joe for the question, Its been a while since Ive did one of these.  Pinot is a difficult grape to grow perfectly.  It is prone to extreme weathers, has thin skin which makes the berries vulnerable to all sorts of diseases, and it also has problems in the cellar during fermentation and these are just a few.

But these types of situations exist no matter where  Pinot is grown, be it Burgundy or Australia.  The main difference here is the terroir.  Grapes are products of their environment, just like you and I.  The soil, sun, rain, air circulation,  and exposure all help to determine their character, including the wine maker.  When one or more of these factors are changed the product is different, hence you have differences between Burgundian Pinot Noir,Australian, New Zealand, and American etc.

Lets talk a little specifically about the terroirs of Burgundy and Australia.

The risk of growing Pinot in Burgundy is very high compared to other places, but the reward is worth it.   The climate is continental and usually experiences cold winters which can damage or even kill young vines.  Burgundy  is northerly enough that the grapes just make it to full ripeness and there is constantly a threat of hail and under ripe fruit.  The long and cool growing season allows the berries to produce all of those complexities and nuances that we all love;  patience is a virtue.  In some years, there is too much rain and too much cold which can hurt production and quality.  Pinot does not live and easy life, but this why some say the best wines in world come from Burgundy.  Check this post out about Bad Soil, Good Grapes to get a better idea.

Pinot_noir_-_Bourgogne_(Santenay)

Burgundian Pinot Noir

The soil is extremely varied in Burgundy.  There is limestone, marl, sand and gravel that exist through out the region and within single vineyards.  Pinot tends to be planted on soils richer and marl and Chardonnay planted on limestone.  These soils provide drainage and warmth which help the grapes to ripen.  The bottom line is that these conditions allow the Pinot Noir grape to flourish and produce their best wines.  The wines are aromatically complex and elegant.  The color is light ruby and the flavors are more earth driven than fruit forward.  The wine delicately caresses your mouth with a good intensity backed by a symphony of nuances.

Pinor_Noir_vines,_Clos_de_Bèze,_Burgundy

Here's a look at another vineyard in Burgundy. The trees in the background are important in blocking strong and cold winds that can damge teh vines. you can also get a good look at the soil in this one.

Now let’s take a look at Australia.  The problem with Australia is that the climate is way too hot in most places. Yarra Valley and Geelong have particularly cooler climates and this is where the better Pinots are being produced.  Most Pinots from Australia are over extracted and fruit bomby due to the heat.  The grapes are picked in an over ripe state resulting in jammy fruitiness with a high alcohol content that takes away from the elegant nature of the grape.  The use of oak is sometimes overdone as well.

There are poor examples of each in both regions.  Some Australian Pinot is better than some Burgundian Pinot.  The producer and vintage are vitally important, especially for Pinot.  Where conditions prevail for the grape, the better the resulting wine. When buying, look for regions that have a known reputation for producing quality grapes.

What to Drink with Sushi

Here’s another question from Joe S. III, “What type of wine is best served with sushi? Being that it’s fish I feel like white would be the answer but I usually have a class of red and find that they compliment each other nicely. Thoughts?”

sushi plate

Who doesn’t love sushi? It is so fresh, light, delicate,healthy(if you can keep your consumption below 20 pieces) and it is also a food that inspires conversation.  Aside from sake, there are some great wines out there that can accompany a nice plate of sushi and edamame.  The only enemy to a great pairing are the soy sauce and wasabi.  The strong wasabi flavor coupled with the  acidic and salty soy sauce are not good friends of wine.  I suggest using them in moderation to better taste the finer flavors of the fish.

Joe, you said that you liked drinking red wine with sushi.  While I wouldn’t particulary recommend this, if it fits you, then by all means drink up.  I’m not here to tell you guys what to do or what not to do.  My goal is to open up your minds and palates to everything that wine has to offer.  If you like drinking red wine with sushi, then by all means go for it!  Im just asking that you try a different red every time.  Try some Beujolais or very light Pinot Noir  to stir things up.

Here’s one combination that I bet no one has tried yet, Champagne and Franciacorta (fran cha korta).  YES, I said Champagne. Sparkling wines are phenomenal with sushi!  We all know Champagne and that doesn’t need an introduction,  but Franciacorta is something I haven’t even heard of until I came to Italy. This sparkling wine is the  Italian equivalent to Champagne and is usually less expensive.  The word Franciacorta literally means “short France”.  Anyway, since they are both made in the traditional method( explaining traditional method will take up a whole post so I will do it at unagi1another time) they have really great flavors of raw bread dough, bread crust, yeast, fruits, flowers and minerals to just name a few.    The fine bubbles and  great acidity of  these sparkling wines do a really nice job of cleansing your mouth and getting you ready for the next piece.    These wines are a perfect pairing with unagi ( smoked and grilled eel sushi ).

OK, on to some still white wines.  Clean, crisp and fresh whites are what we are looking for here.  You want to compliment the delicacy of the sushi, not mask it.  White wines with a touch a sweetness, do a great job of contrasting some of the salty flavors from the soy sauce.  Look for some reason Riesling from Germany with “Kabinett” written on the label.  Kabinett designates the sweetness of German Riesling. This is driest variety, but it still contains a touch of residual sugar in most cases.  These Rieslings have  great acidity, minerality,  apple and pear flavors, along with a touch of sweetness that pairs great with sushi.

Here’s a little something from Austria that I love with sushi, it is called Gruner Veltliner.  These are truly bargain wines and are great summer “porch wines.”  Very light and refreshing, most of these carry a distinct bean or lentil flavor that meld perfectly with the rice of sushi.  Other flavors include, apple, citrus, minerals,smoke and some floral undertones that wrap everything up nicely.  Great wines can be found in the 10-15 dollar range.   A definite MUST try!

Here are some others: Muscadet,  Sauvignon Blanc, Gavi, Muscat , and heck try some Gerwurtraminer (GWT) from Alsace. GWT have more alcohol, less acid,  and are more intense than the rest of the whites I have mentioned.  They have exotic floral and spicey flavors that may go well with the added soy sauce and wasabi.  Some GWT’s also have a touch of sweetness which makes for  a good contrast.  If you are bringing more than one bottle, always start with the sparkler then go with lower alcohol wines first and work your way up.  Enjoy and have fun!

Some Different Grapes and Styles of Wine

Tom N. has asked me to describe different grapes and different styles of wine in this question, “But what is the difference between a Pinot Noir, a Merlot, a Cabernet, a Shiraz, a Barbera, a Chianti , a Super Tuscan, a Barolo, etc? I honestly don’t know what is what or anything, so any insight would be appreciated. Also – what would you generally pair with a Chicken dish, a pasta dish, and a fish dish?”

The list that he cited encompasses a wide variety of styles, grapes and regions of production. I will only discuss a couple of examples in this piece

Pinot Noir- This is grape that is grown throughout the world.  It is made in both a New World style and an Old World style. It is lighter in color than most most red wines and also has a lower tannin content.  Tannins are the chemical compounds in wine that give you that dry feeling in you mouth when you drink red wine. New World styles tend to be fuller bodied and more  fruit driven.  Flavors include juicy fruits like ripe cherries and strawberries along with some smokey meat and earth aromas. If you want to get into Pinot you are going to have to shell out some bucks because good Pinot is hard to find for less than $20 now-a-days because of the movie Sideways.

Old Worlds styles are bit more restrained.  Usually light bodied and very complex, these wines are not for everyone.  Their aroma and flavor profile can include tart fruits like cranberries and sour cherries but also some smells that most new wine drinkers will not be attracted to at first such as barn yard, mushrooms, compost, spice, flowers, wet rocks and sweaty socks.  This profile is typical of Pinot from the Burgundy  region in  France.  These scents may sound a little crazy but I assure you that it is the truth, it is very distinct variety that has a a seductive quality to it. Some people describe Burgundian Pinot Noir as “sex in a  bottle.”  They are also some of the finest and most expensive wines in the world.

Cabernet Sauvigon- This is also a grape that is grown through out the world and represents the complete opposite from Pinot Noir in terms of style.  It’s home town is in the region of Bordeaux, but here it is blended with other red varieties to produce what most believe is a more balanced wine.  Cabernet wines are medium to full bodied wines with a very dark  color, almost ink-like texture and high tannin content.  Cabernet is also grown in New and Old World Styles.  A generic flavor profile includes dark  ripe dark fruits from black currant,blackberry, blueberry and black cherry with notes of tobacco, bell pepper, graphite and cedar.

For the food pairing part this is also a difficult question because it depends on how each is cooked and what type of flavoring and sauces predominate the dish.  Whites generally make a better pairing with white meats, such as chicken, fish, pork and veal.  Any red meat deserves a red wine.  Sauvignon blanc is great with a grilled chicken caesar salad and shellfish.  Muscadet is also perfect with delicately prepared fish and shellfish, a perfect summer dish.  Try Rieslings with Asian foods and a Gerwurtstraminer with spicy foods.  Chardonnay is great with cream sauces on chicken, veal and pork.  Depending on the pasta sauce a red or white can be a good compliment.  Any pasta sauce with meat in it is good pairing with a Chianti.(The term Chianti refers to the region in Tuscany where the wine is produced.  The grape that makes the wine is Sangiovese.  This grape is good at making food friendly wines because it has a medium body, restrained fruit flavors, mild tannins and good acidity.)  Try it with  aged cheeses and salamis as well.  Pinot Noir goes excellently with a nice rare tuna steak,  if you would like to try red wine and fish. Oh yeah, Cabernet Franc is a great food wine that I mentioned in the wine and pizza post.  This grape goes really well with an herbed grilled chicken loaded with parsely, garlic, rosemary, tyme and squeeze of lemon.  This is really great and easy to prepare summer dish with a great wine that most have never never tried before.

I hope I explained enough to give a little primer on this subject.  The best words of advice I can say are to try different styles of wines and find which one you like best.  Then after that, find another style then another.  The wine world is huge so don’t limit yourself to the same wines over and over again.

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