Posts Tagged ‘podere poggio scalette’

Working with Jurij Fiore: Part 3

Choosing specific yeasts to exalt certain characteristics in wine is much of a common practice now a days.  How much better can a specific strain of yeast really make your wine?  Reading the descriptions and characteristics that each strain could add to your wine seems they can actually make a difference, and I am sure they do to a certain extent.  From working with Jurij I learned that choosing a specific yeast is trivial  the grand scheme of things.

Eight hours of harvesting and 60 hectoliters later the stainless steel tank was filled and it was time to brew the yeast at Poggio Podere Scalette.  As Jurij began measuring certain quantities of yeast, the first question that came to my mind was, “Why don’t you stick with the natural yeasts that are already present on the grapes?”  His answer was,” So I can sleep at night.”  Like everything else that Jurij says, his responses are short and to the point.  For me, this was the best possible answer that I could have received, and it made perfect sense.  He explained to me that “you take chance” when you use natural yeasts.  Sometimes they work and sometimes they don’t.

After he explained to me that he doesn’t select specific yeasts for his wines either.  For instance, he uses general red wine yeast and white wine yeast  even though he makes wine from 3 different varietals: Sangiovese, Merlot and Chardonnay.  He told me a story that  one year  he ran out of the white wine yeast so he used the red wine yeast for his Chardonnay.  This made me laugh and he seemed find this amusing too.  He believes that it does not matter which yeast you choose.  “Yeasts can not bring out qualities which are not already there.”, he said to me.  Even though I am not a wine maker, I could not agree with him more.  This quote seems to apply to a number of different things, not only wine.

Jurij is also a “take it as it comes” type of guy.  He doesn’t push or stop malolactic fermentation in his wine.  “If it happens it happens, and if it doesn’t it doesn’t.”, he said.  He is the type of wine maker that lets the wine speak for itself, he is there just to see it through.

Facts About Yeast

They are single celled eukaryotes

They are part of the Fungi kindom along with mushrooms and mold

The word “yeast” comes from Old English gist, gyst, and from the Indo-European root yes-, meaning boil, foam, or bubble.

Most yeast reproduce by splitting themselves into two genetically equal parts

Yeasts have 7000-8000 genes, humans have roughly 30,000 and fruit flies have about 27,000 (genes hold the information to make an organism)

Saccharomyces cerevisiae is the family of yeasts responsible for turning sugar into alcohol

Working With Jurij Fiore: Part 1

After 8 hours of harvesting, I would have thought that it was time for bed.  On the 20 minute hike back to the cellar all I could think about was taking a shower, eating and relaxing.  Lo and behold, a bout of new energy coursed through my system upon first sight of Jurij working in the cellar with his new wine.  Here I learned about yeasts, pumping over, making rose wine and taking laboratory samples amongst other things.  I will go into detail about these concepts in Part 2.

Being in the cellar with one of Tuscany’s finest producers was an opportunity that I could not pass up.  Having a chance to be a part of the wine making process, especially at Podere Poggio Scalatte, is something that I could not miss.  All of the soreness and tiredness within me seemed to be replaced with interest and vigor.  I was ready to work again.

vendemmia 014 Jurij is a staunch believer in that great wine comes from the grapes, not from the technology that you have.  While technology can make your life easier, it doesn’t add anything to the grapes that isn’t already there.  For instance his crusher/destemmer was bought in 1996 and is still working like a champion to this day.  As you can see from the picture, he uses wooden wedges to keep the machine in place and he stands on some old palettes so he can pour the grapes into the destemmer. Now that’s classy.

Now this is state of the art!

Now this is state of the art!

When you walk into the wine cellar you will not be amazed by the fancy shmancy technology either.  It is rather small and looks like it could pass for an ordinary garage.  He uses both stainless steel tanks and cement tanks for fermentation.  When I asked him what he used to control the fermentation temperatures he pointed to the windows and said,”When it gets  hot I open and when it gets cold I close.”

Those were simple yet inspiring words.  It could not have been said more elegantly.  But just like in cooking, the simpler the dish the higher the quality of ingredients there has to be.  If your making spaghetti al pomodoro, and you have bad tomatoes…guess what?  Your s*** out of luck.  The same thing is true for wine.  GREAT GRAPES MAKE GREAT WINE! BASTA!

Before you leave here’s a quick little video of the cellar where the magic happens, or should I say hard work…

Vineyard Variation: Part 2

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Here’s a question pertaining to “Reserve” and “Special Selection” wines.

Francesco,
Can you please comment on the subject of ranking wines specifically with regard to the use of terms like “special select” and “reserve.” Are these two classifications trustworthy and accurate? Is it always true that a “special select” version of a certain vintage is worth more/better tasting than its standard variety? Your thoughts please?

This ranking of wines is a legitimate practice, but it is also used for marketing.  This type of selection is sometimes done in the vineyard or before blending.  If you read the first post on vineyard variation you will see that not all grapes are created equal.  During the harvest the selection of the best grapes can be made and classified as a “special selection”, the second choice as their “normal” blend, and sometimes their leftovers can be sold off as bulk wine.

Reserve wines are a little different.    Reserve wines like Chianti Classico Riserva, Brunello Riserva and Barolo Riserva, just to name a few, are aged for additional years in bottle or in wood before being released compared to the “normal” wines of that vintage. Italy, and most Old World wine regions,  must meet government regulation for the aging criteria.  In the New World, Reserve means something more along the lines of a “Special Selection”, although you will see some wines labeled as Reserve.  These simply denote a different treatment, whether extra maturation in wood, a special selection of grapes, or longer aging in bottle before being released.  There are no government regulations, it is up to the producer.

At Podere Poggio Scalette, Jurij (the wine maker) has no “special selection” or “reserve” wines.  His vineyards are first vinified separately as to better express the terrior of each.  He then samples each vat after the fermentation.  The best vats are classified for his  Sangiovese based wine “Il Carbonaione.”  The vats that do not meet his criteria are sold to bottlers as Chianti Classico.

Jurij does not believe in having “tiered wines” from his estate.  He produces the best and settles for nothing less.  He does not agree with second or third bottling.  When you taste his wines you will know what I mean.  Jurij’s two wines were featured in the new edition of Wine Spectator, the 100% Sangiovese called “Il Carbonaione” and the 100% Merlot named “La Piantonaia.”  In the tasting note from the magazine, there was an unfortunate error.  La Piontonaia was labeled as Sangiovese, it is of course 100% Merlot.

Back to the question.  You will usually have to pay more for the reserve or special selection wines.  Are they better?  I mean its hard to say, we would like to think so, but sometimes the difference is marginal and not worth the extra dollars.  It is really up to your taste.  A lot of times the higher classified wines have a longer potential for aging, so the extra costs can pay off 10-15 years down the line.  My suggestion would be to buy their normal wine and their special selection from the same year, do a blind tasting and see which you like better.  Cheers!

The Harvest

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old vines

October is a very special time of year in Tuscany.    For the past week I  have been  at the Podere Poggio Scalette estate located in the Ruffoli Hills of Greve in Chianti.  This is the renowned estate owned by the famous “Mr. Sangiovese” Vittorio Fiore.  Vittorio is one of the most famous enologists in Italy having essentially created the consulting enologist position.  He is responsible for turning Sangiovese from the quaffable  jug wines into the rich, high quality Sangiovese’s we see drink today.  Through vineyard manipulation and cellar management Sangiovese now has a place as one of the worlds best grapes.

However, the story here s not Vittorio, it is his son and winemaker, Jurij.  Jurij  is the most vendemmia 013humble, passionate, gentle, funny and sincere person I have ever met.  Just being in his presence made me a better and smarter person.   He is the type of guy that would just explain what he is doing without you having to ask.  As long as he sees that you care and are passionate he will go to extraordinary lengths to give you everything he can.

17 years ago Jurij graduated from a viticulture and enology school in   Burgundy.  He is now a qualified Technicien Superieur en Vitocolture and Oenologie a Beaune.  The Podere Poggio Scalette estate was purchased by his father in 1991 and the first vintge was bottled in 1992.  From this point on Jurij has overseen the workings of this phenomenal estate. His talent and passion are evident in the quality of wine that he produces.  These are “true” wines that are made in the vineyard not in the cellar.

Harvesting and helping Jurij  in the cellar leaves me an overabundance of topics to talk about.  I am dedicating the next week to the 2009 harvest.  I want to talk about the cultural experience of working with people from different nations, the soils, vineyard management, vineyard variation, old vines vs. new vines, wine making techniques and philosophy, dinner, the wines of Poggio Scalette, and the 2009 vintage in general. Oh and I cant forget, the amazing video interview with Jurij.  I will do my best to communicate to my readers everything I have learned during this past week.  I hope you all will join me on this fabulous ride.

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