Posts Tagged ‘terroir’

A Product of Your Environment

Hi Francesco,
I have a project that I have to submit for my class, and I’d like your opinion on one of the questions: Why is a Pinot Noir from Australia so different in style from a Burgundy Pinot Noir? I know the basic reasons for this (mostly due to the difficult/delicate nature of growing the grape itself), but would like to know what you think.

Thanks,
Joe

Thank you Joe for the question, Its been a while since Ive did one of these.  Pinot is a difficult grape to grow perfectly.  It is prone to extreme weathers, has thin skin which makes the berries vulnerable to all sorts of diseases, and it also has problems in the cellar during fermentation and these are just a few.

But these types of situations exist no matter where  Pinot is grown, be it Burgundy or Australia.  The main difference here is the terroir.  Grapes are products of their environment, just like you and I.  The soil, sun, rain, air circulation,  and exposure all help to determine their character, including the wine maker.  When one or more of these factors are changed the product is different, hence you have differences between Burgundian Pinot Noir,Australian, New Zealand, and American etc.

Lets talk a little specifically about the terroirs of Burgundy and Australia.

The risk of growing Pinot in Burgundy is very high compared to other places, but the reward is worth it.   The climate is continental and usually experiences cold winters which can damage or even kill young vines.  Burgundy  is northerly enough that the grapes just make it to full ripeness and there is constantly a threat of hail and under ripe fruit.  The long and cool growing season allows the berries to produce all of those complexities and nuances that we all love;  patience is a virtue.  In some years, there is too much rain and too much cold which can hurt production and quality.  Pinot does not live and easy life, but this why some say the best wines in world come from Burgundy.  Check this post out about Bad Soil, Good Grapes to get a better idea.

Pinot_noir_-_Bourgogne_(Santenay)

Burgundian Pinot Noir

The soil is extremely varied in Burgundy.  There is limestone, marl, sand and gravel that exist through out the region and within single vineyards.  Pinot tends to be planted on soils richer and marl and Chardonnay planted on limestone.  These soils provide drainage and warmth which help the grapes to ripen.  The bottom line is that these conditions allow the Pinot Noir grape to flourish and produce their best wines.  The wines are aromatically complex and elegant.  The color is light ruby and the flavors are more earth driven than fruit forward.  The wine delicately caresses your mouth with a good intensity backed by a symphony of nuances.

Pinor_Noir_vines,_Clos_de_Bèze,_Burgundy

Here's a look at another vineyard in Burgundy. The trees in the background are important in blocking strong and cold winds that can damge teh vines. you can also get a good look at the soil in this one.

Now let’s take a look at Australia.  The problem with Australia is that the climate is way too hot in most places. Yarra Valley and Geelong have particularly cooler climates and this is where the better Pinots are being produced.  Most Pinots from Australia are over extracted and fruit bomby due to the heat.  The grapes are picked in an over ripe state resulting in jammy fruitiness with a high alcohol content that takes away from the elegant nature of the grape.  The use of oak is sometimes overdone as well.

There are poor examples of each in both regions.  Some Australian Pinot is better than some Burgundian Pinot.  The producer and vintage are vitally important, especially for Pinot.  Where conditions prevail for the grape, the better the resulting wine. When buying, look for regions that have a known reputation for producing quality grapes.

Retreating Waters

First, I would like to apologize for not posting anything for a little more than a week.  I was in  Calabria (the deep south of Italy) and there was no internet connection available.  I thank everyone that has visited the site in my absence.  You guys are the driving factor behind my writing and are the reason why I keep writing, so thank you!

calabria 016

Today I will not answer a question, but perhaps change it up a little and talk about something that I saw while I was in Calabria.  Your probably asking yourself, “Why is there a picture of rocks and sand  on a wine website?”  Understanding this picture is actually fundamental in learning one of the most important aspects of wine, “terroir.”  Pronounced ter-wahr, this can be translated into “sense of place.”  A wine expresses terrior when it picks up characteristics from its vineyard site due to the soil composition and climatic exposure.  Not all wines can express terrior, there must be a delicate balance between all factors of wine production.  Generally only the best, and I don’t mean most expensive, can exhibit this awesome characteristic. ( There is no relation between the price and quality of wine.)

OK, so back to the photo. This is a picture of the shorline at one of the beaches in Calabria.  As you may have noticed, there is a clear distinction from the finer sand particles and the larger rocks.  Im sure many have you seen this at other beaches.  The point here is that sand was not always sand, the sand once existed as larger racks that were  ground down from the constant battering from the ocean’s waves.  Over millions and millions of years, larger rocks like the one seen in the picture were transformed by water into the sand like particles that all of us love to lay our towels on in the summer.  (For another example of this geographic anomoly and the sheer power of water take a look at the Grand Canyon. ) The larger stones in this picture are right at the edge of the waters grasp and this is the reason why they do not look like sand yet.  If you came back in 1000 years  probably nothing visible has changed.  This is how long it takes.

Now let’s relate this to wine.  When you start reading more about wine you will see that the soil is a very important part in producing great wine.  You often will  hear of soils being formed by retreating oceans.  Well, what I just explained is how these soils are formed.  Oceans once covered almost all of the Earth, and in retreat, the constant battering of the shorline by waves and tides have reduced mountains, boulders and rocks into some prime real estate for wine growing.  Its truly amazing that when you think about it, this can actually happen.  The types of soils formed depend on the landscape that existed before the retreat of the oceans.  Some are very sandy like those in the Muscadet producing region of the Nantais in France (very close to the Atlantic Ocean) or the Kimmeridgean soils of Chablis which contain large quantities of marine fossils, perfect for producing crisp Chardonnay.  Basically what I’m saying is that different soils are suited for different varieties of grapes and different styles of wine.  Sandy soils because of there lightness and excellent drainage, produce more delicate lighter bodied wines.  Soil rich in clay  produce heavier bodied richer wines and a mix of these soils produces something in between.  I have only named 3 types of soils here but there are dozens that exist.

Next time you pick up a bottle of wine, read the label and see were it hails.  Try to get one from Europe because the soils seem to be more defined and specific from anywhere else in the world, especially France.  Find out which soils exist at the particular site and remember what that wine tastes like, take notes if you have to.  Doing this  will greatly add to your wine education and your drinking pleasure!

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