Working with Jurij Fiore: Part 2

The steepness of some of some of the vineyards

The steepness of some of some of the vineyards

As I said in the last post, after returning from 8 hours of harvesting, I was suddenly invigorated with new energy upon seeing Jurij workng in the cellar.  I asked him if I could help and he put me immediately to work.

Ill admit I was a little nervous about working at first, I mean I didnt want to mess anything up, but Jurij seemed to have no qualms about letting me take part in the process.  When he explained to me the first job I had to do, I wasnt exactly sure what he expected.  I mean he didnt even show me what to do or how to do it.  He pointed to the vat of new wine and said, ” Cuando arriva il vino, fai cosi.”, as he made a shoveling motion with his hands.

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The rocky soil

For those that dont know Italian this means, “When the wine arrives, go like this.”  To give you a reference he was in process of pumping the recently destemmed grapes into the stainless steel vat.  Here’s a picture of the vat and the ladder. The vat was pretty full at this point and the must coming from the hose can get clogged, so my job was to shovel away the arriving must so the pump would not not get backed up.  So I climbed on the ladder and all of a sudden the must starting to come pretty fast.  I began to shovel away some of it, but it is harder than it sounds.  First of all the instrument I was given looked like a plunger but instead of a rubber piece it was plastic, clearly not good for shoveling or scraping away semi-crushed grapes.  This was not the best instrument I could have used, but I quickly learned how to use it efficiently.  I was also not in a strategically useful position to use leverage, so this added to the difficulty.  This process of shoveling and moving the hose lasted for about 5-6 minutes, which seemed pretty long at the time.  Anyway it was a great experience for me, and from that point on I become the must shoveler.

What I found interesting about shoveling different vats was that each had their own consistency.  Some were loaded with a high ratio of pulp to juice and some were the complete opposite.  The former were more difficult to shovel while the latter pretty easy.  It was also clear that juice in the vats with the high percentage of pulp were darker in color.  All of the vats I shoveled were Sangiovese, so the discrepancy was not due to grape variety, but due to the terroir.

Working With Jurij Fiore: Part 1

After 8 hours of harvesting, I would have thought that it was time for bed.  On the 20 minute hike back to the cellar all I could think about was taking a shower, eating and relaxing.  Lo and behold, a bout of new energy coursed through my system upon first sight of Jurij working in the cellar with his new wine.  Here I learned about yeasts, pumping over, making rose wine and taking laboratory samples amongst other things.  I will go into detail about these concepts in Part 2.

Being in the cellar with one of Tuscany’s finest producers was an opportunity that I could not pass up.  Having a chance to be a part of the wine making process, especially at Podere Poggio Scalatte, is something that I could not miss.  All of the soreness and tiredness within me seemed to be replaced with interest and vigor.  I was ready to work again.

vendemmia 014 Jurij is a staunch believer in that great wine comes from the grapes, not from the technology that you have.  While technology can make your life easier, it doesn’t add anything to the grapes that isn’t already there.  For instance his crusher/destemmer was bought in 1996 and is still working like a champion to this day.  As you can see from the picture, he uses wooden wedges to keep the machine in place and he stands on some old palettes so he can pour the grapes into the destemmer. Now that’s classy.

Now this is state of the art!

Now this is state of the art!

When you walk into the wine cellar you will not be amazed by the fancy shmancy technology either.  It is rather small and looks like it could pass for an ordinary garage.  He uses both stainless steel tanks and cement tanks for fermentation.  When I asked him what he used to control the fermentation temperatures he pointed to the windows and said,”When it gets  hot I open and when it gets cold I close.”

Those were simple yet inspiring words.  It could not have been said more elegantly.  But just like in cooking, the simpler the dish the higher the quality of ingredients there has to be.  If your making spaghetti al pomodoro, and you have bad tomatoes…guess what?  Your s*** out of luck.  The same thing is true for wine.  GREAT GRAPES MAKE GREAT WINE! BASTA!

Before you leave here’s a quick little video of the cellar where the magic happens, or should I say hard work…

Vineyard Variation: Part 2

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Here’s a question pertaining to “Reserve” and “Special Selection” wines.

Francesco,
Can you please comment on the subject of ranking wines specifically with regard to the use of terms like “special select” and “reserve.” Are these two classifications trustworthy and accurate? Is it always true that a “special select” version of a certain vintage is worth more/better tasting than its standard variety? Your thoughts please?

This ranking of wines is a legitimate practice, but it is also used for marketing.  This type of selection is sometimes done in the vineyard or before blending.  If you read the first post on vineyard variation you will see that not all grapes are created equal.  During the harvest the selection of the best grapes can be made and classified as a “special selection”, the second choice as their “normal” blend, and sometimes their leftovers can be sold off as bulk wine.

Reserve wines are a little different.    Reserve wines like Chianti Classico Riserva, Brunello Riserva and Barolo Riserva, just to name a few, are aged for additional years in bottle or in wood before being released compared to the “normal” wines of that vintage. Italy, and most Old World wine regions,  must meet government regulation for the aging criteria.  In the New World, Reserve means something more along the lines of a “Special Selection”, although you will see some wines labeled as Reserve.  These simply denote a different treatment, whether extra maturation in wood, a special selection of grapes, or longer aging in bottle before being released.  There are no government regulations, it is up to the producer.

At Podere Poggio Scalette, Jurij (the wine maker) has no “special selection” or “reserve” wines.  His vineyards are first vinified separately as to better express the terrior of each.  He then samples each vat after the fermentation.  The best vats are classified for his  Sangiovese based wine “Il Carbonaione.”  The vats that do not meet his criteria are sold to bottlers as Chianti Classico.

Jurij does not believe in having “tiered wines” from his estate.  He produces the best and settles for nothing less.  He does not agree with second or third bottling.  When you taste his wines you will know what I mean.  Jurij’s two wines were featured in the new edition of Wine Spectator, the 100% Sangiovese called “Il Carbonaione” and the 100% Merlot named “La Piantonaia.”  In the tasting note from the magazine, there was an unfortunate error.  La Piontonaia was labeled as Sangiovese, it is of course 100% Merlot.

Back to the question.  You will usually have to pay more for the reserve or special selection wines.  Are they better?  I mean its hard to say, we would like to think so, but sometimes the difference is marginal and not worth the extra dollars.  It is really up to your taste.  A lot of times the higher classified wines have a longer potential for aging, so the extra costs can pay off 10-15 years down the line.  My suggestion would be to buy their normal wine and their special selection from the same year, do a blind tasting and see which you like better.  Cheers!

Vineyard Variation

The first day of harvesting was a true eye opener for me.  Being in the field is something that can only be experienced, not read about.   I think one of the most important things I learned during that day was that all parts of a vineyard are not created equally.  Aside from my back hurting and my feet and legs being sore, I was able to notice (in flying colors) that grape quality varied from row to row, top to bottom, and side to side.  Of course I have read about this in books, but seeing it with my own eyes made it come to life.

“What could cause this variation?”, I asked to myself.  In my head I decided to go over all the factors that could have contributed to the this: steepness of slope, soil composition, exposure and vine type all came to mind.  Just in one vineyard alone, all of these factors showed their faces.  For example, when we began to harvest Cabernet Sauvignon.  Cabernet is a grape that prefers gravely and well drained soils.  At the top of the this particular slope existed the healthiest grapes for two reasons.  One, the soil here had a high proportion of rock and gravel.  Two, the hill was steeper at the top then at the bottom.  As I made my way down the hill I noticed that soil was beginning to turn more clay-like and the steepness also had decreased as well.  Water from the top of the hill would trickle down into flatter  clayey soils of the bottom and in effect hamper the quality of grapes.

The same principles can also be applied to the Sangiovese grape.  The steeper hills high in composition of a soil type called galestro, produced better grapes.

The Merlot was a little different story.  This grape prefers more clayey soils, so where there was a higher percentage of rock and gravel, the Merlot was not at 100%.

Of course there are other factors that play a role in determining grape quality, but I was able to feel the effects of soil composition the most.  Sometimes there is just no good explanation of why some vines do better than others.

Here are some pictures of a particular row of vines.  You will be able to see the variation from vine to vine

1: Short, compact and healthy

1: Decent quality bunches, can be a little tighter

2: Fuller and larger

2: Fuller and larger

3: Pretty much perfect

3: Pretty much perfect

4: More clusters here, but there is some rot and dry spots

4: More clusters here, but there is some rot and dry spots

5: Really nice bunches

5: Really nice bunches

6:  About half of this cluster was dried out

6: About half of this cluster was dried out

7: A little more dryness

7: A little more dryness

8: Not looking so hot...

8: Not looking so hot...

9: Getting better

9: Getting better

10: Now that's sexy!

10: Now that's sexy!

11: More nice bunches, but not as compact

11: More nice bunches, but not as compact

12:  Hard to tell, but quantity and quality are diminishing

12: Hard to tell, but quantity and quality are diminishing

13: Loose, small and low quality

13: Loose, small and low quality

14: More low quality

14: More low quality

Old Vines vs. New Vines

Instead of me reciting the harvest day by day, I decided to write about the things I learned during the week long harvest.  After all, this site is about wine and not me.

I’m sure most people browsing wine shop shelves have come across labels mentioning  old vines or new vines at some point.  In French they would be termed “Villes Vines” or in Italian “Vigneto Vecchio.”    The old vine wines are probably more expensive, but what does an old vine contribute to the resulting wine?  In the preceding videos you will see the old “gnarly” character of the trunk and get a glimpse of the differences of each type.

Here’s a little video of a vine that is about 40 years old.  When I started taking this video I had just eaten some dirt from the ground to get a sense of the terrior.  You can hear some comments in the background.

During the harvest I was able to see both of these types of vines in action.  These are concepts that I have only read in textbooks and magazines up until this point. Seeing the difference, feeling the textures, and plucking the clusters from these types of vines almost makes literature seem like fiction.  You REALLY learn what this “wine stuff” is about when you get your hands dirty, your back sore, fingers cut, and skin stung.

This is a video that I made in April on a class trip to Podere Poggio Scalette (PPS).  Instead of me writing this time, I though I would hand it over to the professional Jurij Fiore on explaining his view of old and new vines.

One of the downsides of having an old vineyard is not that the vines get too old and don’t produce quality fruit, but the soils get worn out.  They become compacted and the drainage is limited.  Compacted soils suffocate the roots, they can’t breathe and  sometimes they will start to rot due to the excess water that can not drain.  When this happens the vines must be uprooted and new vines planted.

A Look Back at the 2009 Vintage

This is not a vintage that will go down as one of the best in Tuscany, or at least in Greve in Chianti.  Having arrived in Florence in mid January, Ive been able to track the progress of this vintage by living it and speaking to the winemakers.  So lets get it goin…

The winter was fairly mild with no extremes in either direction.  There was quite a bit of rain from what I can remember, but nothing too harmful.  In May, I got to speak with some wine makers and they all agreed that budding was on time and normal.  Spring produced average temperatures and rainfall. So far so good.  Everything seemed to be going well until August…

Every second the sun produces the same energy as about a trillion 1 megaton bombs! In one second, our sun produces enough energy for almost 500,000 years of the current needs of our  civilization.

Every second the sun produces the same energy as about a trillion 1 megaton bombs! In one second, our sun produces enough energy for almost 500,000 years of the current needs of our civilization.

Scorching temperatures in August with no rain for 30 days  hurt the vines.  The older vines at Podere Poggio Scalette were able to produce good quality grapes, but the young vines were hit hard. The absence of rain coupled with the rocky, sandy, and well draining soils of the vineyards spelled disaster for some crops of vines.

Finally there was  rain in September, which brought some vines back to life, but the rains continued up until harvest.  A bout of hail tarnished some of the grapes at Poggio Scalette, but most were untouched.  Excess rain was swallowed by the vines and some of the concentration was lost.   During harvest, quite a few of the Merlot and Sangiovese vines were littered with mold, so strict selection was a must.

The sun heats up the ocean's surface and water evaporates into the air.  When enough moisture is formed clouds appear.  Finally, when temperatues get cool, the moisture condenses and precipitation forms.

The sun heats up the ocean's surface and water evaporates into the air. When enough moisture is formed clouds appear. Finally, when temperatues get cool enough, the moisture condenses and precipitates in the form of rain. Mountains block the movement of clouds and force them up into the cooler regions of the atmosphere. This is why there is usually arid climate on one side of a range and rainy weather on the other .

Overall, it wasn’t the worst or the best vintage according  to Jurij.  Due to a large percentage of old vine Sangiovese, there seemed to be enough quality grapes to offset some of the poor.  “We will see…”, says Jurij when I asked him how the harvest went.  When we took a sample to check the sugar levels from a vat of Sangiovese, the specific gravity tube measured 21 brix which translated to a 13-13.5 abv after fermentation if everything goes right.  A sigh of relief echoed through the cellar and sweat was wiped from our face.

Anyone(well maybe not everyone) can make great wine in a great vintage.  Great wines made in bad vintages are a testament to the skill of the winemaker and to the quality of terroir.  Most people won’t buy wines from bad vintages, but I say go for it.   Drinking wines from less than stellar vintages will make you appreciate and pay homage to the fact that nothing can be perfect all the time.  I think to truly understand a great wine one must taste the ones which aren’t so great.

Up next: Old Vines vs. New Vines

The Harvest

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old vines

October is a very special time of year in Tuscany.    For the past week I  have been  at the Podere Poggio Scalette estate located in the Ruffoli Hills of Greve in Chianti.  This is the renowned estate owned by the famous “Mr. Sangiovese” Vittorio Fiore.  Vittorio is one of the most famous enologists in Italy having essentially created the consulting enologist position.  He is responsible for turning Sangiovese from the quaffable  jug wines into the rich, high quality Sangiovese’s we see drink today.  Through vineyard manipulation and cellar management Sangiovese now has a place as one of the worlds best grapes.

However, the story here s not Vittorio, it is his son and winemaker, Jurij.  Jurij  is the most vendemmia 013humble, passionate, gentle, funny and sincere person I have ever met.  Just being in his presence made me a better and smarter person.   He is the type of guy that would just explain what he is doing without you having to ask.  As long as he sees that you care and are passionate he will go to extraordinary lengths to give you everything he can.

17 years ago Jurij graduated from a viticulture and enology school in   Burgundy.  He is now a qualified Technicien Superieur en Vitocolture and Oenologie a Beaune.  The Podere Poggio Scalette estate was purchased by his father in 1991 and the first vintge was bottled in 1992.  From this point on Jurij has overseen the workings of this phenomenal estate. His talent and passion are evident in the quality of wine that he produces.  These are “true” wines that are made in the vineyard not in the cellar.

Harvesting and helping Jurij  in the cellar leaves me an overabundance of topics to talk about.  I am dedicating the next week to the 2009 harvest.  I want to talk about the cultural experience of working with people from different nations, the soils, vineyard management, vineyard variation, old vines vs. new vines, wine making techniques and philosophy, dinner, the wines of Poggio Scalette, and the 2009 vintage in general. Oh and I cant forget, the amazing video interview with Jurij.  I will do my best to communicate to my readers everything I have learned during this past week.  I hope you all will join me on this fabulous ride.

“Home Made” Wines

Francesco can you talk a little about the  differences in wine bought from the store and ones made by the consumer. I’m not really talking about the ones that older generations made in the bath tubs but more those wine making locations that people go and make their wine. I’ve heard that there aren’t preservatives put in the wine you make and that it is less likely to give you a hangover? What other noticeable characteristics and differences could you enlighten me with? Is there such thing as a high class homemade? Are the grapes imported or are they grown in the area you live?

There are many differences between home made wines and the wines you’ll find in a wine shop, but there are also a couple of similarities.

Some winemakers do not grow their own grapes, they simply buy them from a grape producer.  This is not an uncommon practice used in California as well as other parts of the world.  Sometimes the wine makers feel that they should leave the growing to someone who specializes in that area.  They then take these grapes and make their wine.

Usually, grape juice is also bought to make these home made wines.  The juice can be sourced from all over the world. I have seen juice from Nebbiolo grapes(Italy) as well as juice from Cabernet, Merlot and some other varieties.  This juice is then fermented in your wine making location to producewine.    The quality of most of these is very poor.  The only way to make good wine is to grow good grapes.  The juices used are probably not the highest quality and the vessels for aging are not top notch either.  Here’s the equation:

bad grapes + sub-prime facilities + unskilled wine maker = poor wine

I hate to knock these wines because many people take pride in doing this, but I’ve never tasted blockbuster home made wine.  Some are OK, but most dangle in that below average category.  While it may be marginally cheaper to produce such wines, the resulting ratio between quality and price can be very low.  However, I do not denounce the practice.  Making your wine and sharing it with your friends and family is exactly the point.  Dont make your wine with intentions of it being the next Chateau Margaux.  Learning and experiencing part of the wine making process is important in understanding some of the steps involved.  This will also help you to develop an appreciation for what it means to produce quality wine on a large scale.    As for the added preservatives, I’m not sure.  I’ve never made my own wine in this fashion, feel free to chime in if you have.

Stressin Out

In the last post I talked about how infertile soils challenged the grapevines just enough as to promote the production of quality and healthy fruit, however, this is not always enough. The vines also  need to be put under a controlled degree of stress in order to further emphasize these effects.  Through careful manipulation and experience vines can be clipped, cut, and planted in different ways to produce the desired effects.

For instance, vines want to produce as many clusters as possible, this is just a natural reproductive inclination.  If vines are allowed to do this, the concentration of nutrients to each berry would be diluted.  However, if you prune your vines correctly, the vine will produce less fruit but the proportion of nutrients to each cluster will increase. Therefore,”the higher the quantity, the lower the quality.  The lower the quantity, the higher the quality.”

Another vineyard practice  is to plant the vines just close enough as to urge competition between the roots.  Once again, if the roots had all the space available for a comfortable and lazy growth they would not ramify and  would remain weak due to lateral growth instead of deep growth.  But because the close planting promotes competition, the roots fight each other for finding nutrients and therefore become stronger.

The point that I am trying to stress here is that grapevines need to be challenged in order to get better at what they do; produce quality fruit.  This is a universal law and its applications are endless.  You must constantly challenge yourself  against tougher and tougher obstacles in order to reach your potential.

Bad Soil, Good Grapes

Ironically, grape vines used for the production of quality wine must be planted on infertile  soils in order to generate good grapes.  This concept may seem contradictory at first, but as you will see shortly, it makes perfect sense.

THE most important factor in making great wine is the quality of fruit and the only way to get quality fruit is to choose the perfect vineyard site for the grapes that you want to grow.  Climate, position, and soil, (otherwise known as terroir)   are the three factors in choosing this site.  Each one of these is important on their own merit, but we will talk about  “soil”  for now.

The vineyards of the Rhone Valley

The vineyards of the Rhone Valley

When say I say poor soil I mean poor soil.  Sometimes, like in the Rhone Valley, there is not even an ounce of dirt in sight, just rocks.  Who would think that soils made up of rocks can produce such fantastic grapes?  Rocky soils provide excellent drainage for the vines as well as capturing heat during the day to warm the vines at night.  The physical components of the soil  like those that regulate water supply  are of the utmost importance in determining a wines quality, not the chemical nutritive elements that most may think.   This is whole other beast which I will not get into here, but I will soon.

Grapevines for wine are planted on soils that are usually not fertile enough to sustain other agricultural crops.   Grapevines  need to be stressed to produce quality fruit. The poor soil encourages the roots to dig deeper for water and other nutrients.  When this happens the roots begin to ramify and the surface area of the roots that eventually comes into contact with the soil increases.  In turn, more nutrients are delivered to the precious clusters of berries.  Also, more roots equal better regulation of water supple which is very important during the veraison.

The fertile and rich  soils that are used to grow commercial crops would spoil the grapes.  Here’s the definition of spoil, “: to impair the disposition or character of by overindulgence or excessive praise. (as in spoiling a child)”  When grapes are spoiled the quality of the resulting fruit is inevitably inferior.  In other words, fertile soils make it too easy for vines to produce grapes.  When this happens, the quality of fruit is sacrificed for quantity.    It’s like a child never having to work a day their life.  The harder and entity has to work for something the greater it will be rewarded in the end.

These are just a couple of basic concepts of vine cultivation.  These concepts are not universal but provide a good background in understanding how some of this stuff works and the varying factors that go into producing the delicious beverage we call wine.

Wearing a Mask

decanterIn my earlier days of “wine-ing” and dining it seemed fashionable, trendy and cool to let wine breathe in a decanter for a couple of hours.  I read about it in virtually every wine periodical and most deemed it a necessary process in order to fully enjoy a wine, whether young or old.  For new wines, decanting and breathing is meant to soften and loosen the aromas in  tightly wound, young, and tannic wines.  In older wines, decanting is a legitimate way to separate the clear wine from the precipitated sediment as well as to let the wine “breathe” from all of those years trapped inside the bottle.

The effects of breathing a wine are very controversial.  Most people will pop the cork 2-4 hours before serving and let the bottle sit on the counter. Now, lets examine this situation.  The surface area of wine that actually comes into the contact with the air is very minimal.  The rate of oxygen being dissolved into a breathing bottle of wine has been estimated to be in the area of 1 milligram per liter.  This trivial amount is not enough to change the wine in any way, shape, or form.  The act of pouring wine into a glass has double the rate of  oxygen absorption!  Clearly, breathing a wine is utterly useless, at least in its bottle.  People still admit that a wine which is left to breathe tastes better than one that hasn’t.  The power of preconceived notions is very powerful and we are all  guilty of this flaw at some point.

The other option would be to pour your beloved wine into a decanter for a couple of hours.  This technique allows a larger area of wine to come into contact with the oxygen in the air.   Now, maybe we can see some changes in the wine. A large majority will admit that something happens in a wine after letting it breathe for some time.   But is this change for good or bad in terms of quality?  “The wine tastes softer, less acidic and less aggressive”, are common reasons offered by many for breathing a wine.

Don't let your wine wear a  mask...

Don't let your wine wear a mask...

For me, I like to taste wine in its unaltered state such as to let the wine give me everything it has to offer.  Its razor sharp acidity, mouth puckering tannins and aggressive mouth feel let you perceive the wine the way it was made.  In this way you can see the true power and intensity of a wine or its spindly flavorless nature.    I prefer to taste white wines at room temperature for this same reason. When tasted at cold temperatures the wine’s faults are masked and the wine is perceived as tasting “better”.   Letting a wine breathe for hours has this same effect.  Delicious flavors and aromas may dissipate in front of your nose, while softening the tannins, acidity, and the overall mouth feel.  All of those complexities of long term bottle age can be “gone with the wind.”  The only legitimate reason for decanting a wine should be to separate the sediment. This is best done right before serving.

If you want to experience a 2005 Bordeaux or a 2004 Barolo, or any young,

Who knew boxing was this old? And they are wearing gloves!

Who knew boxing was this old? And they are wearing gloves!

complex and tannic wine you should muster up your courage, put on some protective gear(head gear + mouth guard) and fight back back with some aged cheeses and braised meat dishes.  This is how I like  enjoy those blockbuster wines.  Or you can just wait 15-20 years. It’s your choice…

Comparing Apples and Oranges

appleMost people think that a comparison between apples and oranges is unfair, I but would like to argue this point. Ask yourself this question, “Which is better a  Bordeaux or a Muscadet from Nantais?”  We constantly see first growth Bordeauxs getting scores of 100, but why don’t we ever see a Muscadet receiving a score of 100?   Scoring systems aim to be as objective as possible, but invariably, they are not!  The first growths of Bordeaax  are an expression of the finest wines the regions have to offer, so in that respect they should receive a high score, but why can’t the best Muscadet or Cabernet Franc achieve a score of 100 if they are the best their class? Scoring should be expressed in terms of “varietal” or “regional” expression if you will.    orange

Bordeaux and Muscadet from Nantais are like apples and oranges.  When we look at these fruits from an objective standpoint, can we then determine which one is “better”.  The strictly qualitative factors of each can be analyzed from a known set of standards and only then can overall assessment of quality can be made.  But how does one determine what “quality” is?  This is what I think…

Lets compare apples and oranges. You have a perfectly round, juicy and sumptuous orange and next to it a gleaming mouthwatering red apple. Which one is better? It’s a hard question to answer but now consider this situation. The apple contains unripe spots and is bruised in some places. When you bite into it, it is soft and pulpy and lacks crispness. Now which is better? Clearly the orange is better because it lacks qualitative faults. If the situation was reversed and the orange was dull, dry and shriveled the apple would be better. Both fruits have certain characteristics that ascertain their quality: their color and physical presence, the texture and feeling in your mouth, acid/sugar balance etc.

The same can be said for wine. It is possible to rate wine from an objective standpoint, but only when the qualitative factors are being compared, not the elements that make them different. Of course you may choose the blemished and pulpy apple over the worlds greatest orange, but you should realize objectively that the orange is of better quality.  This is the reason why a less than perfect Bordeaux can receive a better score than a top notch Musacdet.  Clearly, sometimes the the blemished apple is being chosen.

Who Does Your Wine Taste Like?

Bestowing a personality to a wine is key in not only remembering its “style”, but also a good way to spark up some interesting and creative conversation.

Some friends and I were drinking a Brunello the other night and we each described how the wine made us feel, but not in terms of aromas and tastes but in away that gave life to the wine.  This type of tasting note no only stimulates the mind a little more but it also empowers the wine with a personality and paints a picture for everyone to see.

This tasting note was conceived by a girl, so the note is a little biased.

2003  Brunello di Montalcino

Put yourself on an old farm. Then imagine a young, attractive well strapped fellow with dirt under his fingers, palms like sandpaper, and a nicely styled hair cut.  Sexy and intriguing, but rustic and rough around the edges at the same time.  You know that in 10 years he will be everything you ever wanted.

I thought it was interesting the way she put it together and in a weird way I could see where she was coming from and so could the others at the table.

I like this way of explaining wine  because it is much more conversational and fun. This type of “tasting” note can be applied to both specific wines and styles of wines.   If any of you out there have tried this I would like to hear some your notes.  If you haven’t then pop a bottle and conjure something up!

The “Natural” Dilemma

There has been a recent trend in the wine making community of trying to produce wines with as little chemical intervention as possible. While I am totally for these methods, there are many other things that we should worry about first, rather than how much sulfite is in our wine. There are also some words like “natural” ,”organic”, and “biodynamic” that get thrown around and people really don’t know what they mean. So here it is.

organicOrganic: The word organic literally means, ” of, relating to, or derived from living organisms” or “of, relating to, or containing carbon compounds”. This is not really an entirely descriptive word, however. There are different standards in different countries for what “organic” means, so you don’t really know what your getting. In simplest terms it means that the grapes were farmed without the use of man made chemical pesticides and fertilizers. Wines labeled “organic” are not always sulfite free. Sulfites occur naturally in wine and the addition of sulfites might be allowed under some laws . In America, added sulfites are not allowed if  you want your product to be organically made.

Natural: “being in accordance with or determined by nature” . Hearing this expression in describing a product rubs me like course sandpaper. In most cases, nothing but a great marketing ploy by some witty ad agency leading people to believe that eating any amount of “natural” food is healthy and don’t mind paying extra for the classification. For example… I constantly come across the phrase written on olive oil jars, “Made from 100% Natural Olives”.  Doesn’t olive oil have to come from “natural” olives?  I can’t imagine making synthetic olive trees.   Or even a better question…what is a “non natural” olive? With wines, it is a similar mystery. There is no certification for “natural” wine. Some producers use the term, perhaps, to distinguish themselves from those of “organic” or “biodynamic” wine making methods. If wine is made from grapes then it is “natural” unless one wants to venture into the woods and find a wild vine bush with decaying berries on the ground that have started to ferment, fill a cup and drink the juice.   Then you can  note the hints of formic acid(ant juice) and bouquet of musca domestica . Now that’s “natural” and “includes protein.”

Biodynamic:  The definition, ” a method of organic farming that treats farms as unified and individual organisms, emphasizing balancing the holistic development and interrelationship of the soil, plants, animals as a closed, self-nourishing system”. Pretty complicated it seems  and  some what equivalent to relying on astrology and horoscopes in the wine industry. Winemakers look to the moon and stars for cues of when to plant, fertilize,

manure-like substance being put into a horn

manure-like substance being put into a horn

and harvest. Bull horns are stuffed with flowers, herbs, manure and rocks which are then planted somewhere in the vineyard. Its almost voodoo-like if you ask me. In my opinion, the quality of wine would be attributed to the passion of the winemaker and the attention to detail that goes into biodynamic farming, rather than the mysterious practices. Its strange, but for some reason I am all for it.

Heres the bottom line. I am totally for sustainable and “green” agricultural practices. I will buy these wines not because I want to be healthy but because I simply want to experience something different and as an added benefit, support the green movement. Should more wines makers move to this direction? I think that wine makers should try to produce the best possible wines in the cleanest and environmentally responsible way without sacrificing quality. Wine like all other products is a commodity. Higher demand for a particular kind of wine will have higher costs. If the demand is for organically produced wines, then the reduced yields will generate the higher costs. Instead of having a crop of 15,000 kilos with the use of traditional techniques, you may now have a crop of 9,500 kilos. This reduces supply, which also will increase costs.

… continue reading this entry.

Surface Area 51

So I recently had to opportunity to eat some ripe and ready wine grapes.  This has been a craving of mine for a very long time.  I have tasted hundreds of wines but never an actual wine grape ready to be crushed.

grape clusters 001

Can you tell which is which?

In my wine class I was presented with two grape bunches just picked from the Frescobaldi Estate.  My teacher, Diletta Frescobaldi is one of the current owners of the Frescobaldi wine enterprise, so she had no problem takng some grapes from the vineyards.  One of them was Cabernet Sauvignon and the other Petit Verdot.  Without knowing which was which, it was pretty easy to determine their identities just from sight.

Cabernet Sauvignon grapes usually  make a dense, dark and tannic wine.  All of these attributes mainly come from the skins.  The berries of this cluster, were very small and tightly packed.   Flavor on the palate was  sweet, medium acidity but with a thick skin.  The one flavor that stood out was a strong green pepper taste.  Italian Cabernets tend to develop these green pepper nuances, especially wines in the north. The Petit Verdot berries were much larger and not densely packed.  On the palate they were much more acidic and less flavorful.  The skin was also not as thick.  Both were just down right delicious and only wish you could find these regularly in the store.

The reason for Cabernet Sauvignon’s high tannin content is due to small size of the berry.  Think about it.  The ratio of  skin to pulp is higher in smaller berries than it is for larger ones so the resulting wine will have less juice  for the same amount of tannin. This is partly the reason  for Cabernet’s high tannin content in conjunction with its thick skin.

225 liter barriques

small oak barrels

The concempt of  high surface area to volume ratio is also used when aging wine.  Traditional French barriques hold  225 liters.  Other wooden vessels can hold 1000’s of liters. It is up to the winemaker to decide the level of oak influence.  When wine is aged in small barrels, the surface area of wine exposed to the oak is significantly higher than that of larger barrels.  This can be a problem when the wine is left to age for too long.  The oak can dominate the flavor of a wine and the balance is completely thrown off.  When done right, French/American barriques can impart delicious sweet spice flavor to a wine as well give the wine a nice softness and roundness.

big and small barrels at Altesino Winery

big and small barrels at Altesino Winery

The traditional method of aging wine in wood is done through the use of the bigger barrels, like the ones to your right.  These are the vats where the Brunellos are held prior to bottling at the Altesino Winery.  These larger oak barrels because of their low surface area to volume ratio impart subtle oak flavors and tend to leave a rougher, more rustic style of wine.

Sleepy Wine

Joe was wondering:

In my experimentation I had a few glasses of wine and, subsequently, got pretty sleepy afterward. I was wondering what it is about wine that makes it different from other alcohol in that, more often than not, it makes you tired?

lioness after a glass of red wine

lioness after a glass of red wine

This question, in some ways, stands for everything that wine represents.  WINE EFFECTS EVERYONE DIFFERENTLY.  It makes a lot people tired, but many people also feel invigorated, those like me for instance.  Some people will rate a wine 95pts and someone else will rate it 75pts.  Cherries and flowers for one person and plums and leather for another.  Drinking a glass of wine, be it cheap jug wine or  high end stuff, sparks something up inside.  It is a personal experience for  your mind, palate, and body.

But that is probably not the answer you are looking for, right?  Well to answer your question bluntly, the bottom line is that alcohol is a depressant.  Ethanol, the principal alcohol in wine, inhibits the activity of the central nervous system pure and simple.  This in turn, makes you feel “down” and sleepy.

Here is another possible answer and topic that needs addressing.  Sulfites.       (sooner rather than later I will demystify this chemical additive) Sulfites take a lot of blame these days.  Headaches, allergic reactions, hangovers, and sleepiness have all been attributed to sulfites.  This chemical is added to the must to sometimes stop fermentation, used a preservative,  and also helps to stop oxidation.  Sulfites also occur naturally in wine.  Wine is one of the only alcohols to contain this chemical, so this could be why people get more sleepy from wine than any other alcohol.  But like I said before, everyone is different.

There has also been some research done by Italian scientists that tested 8 varieties of grapes for melatonin.  Melatonin is a sleep  hormone that is secreted by the pineal gland in your brain.  They found large levels of this hormone, or what seemed to be melatonin in the skins of the grapes.  Nebbiolo, Merlot,Cabernet Sauvignon, and Sangiovese scored the highest.  However, there is skepticism from other scientist in that the compound found may not actually be melatonin.  So who really knows.

If you find yourself getting tired because of wine, try to eat something before you drink as to slow the absorption of alcohol into your system.

The Rough Times: Got Tannins?

winestache

Me with a photoshopped "winestache"

Finally we get to the meat and potatoes of wine.  Tannins are responsible for giving you that dry and puckering feeling in your mouth. Mostly found in red wine, they exist in whites but are usually imperceptible. They provide the wine with bitter and astringent sensations and also give  wine its color.  Some like this astringent feeling and some don’t.  For me, it depends on how they feel, whether the tannins add or take away from the wine.  Most novice wine drinkers will at first not prefer this feeling, but I can assure you, a red wine with the correct balance of tannins will spark your interest and leave you yearning for more.

Tannins are the “backbone” of a wine.  They provide the wine with structure, balance, body, complexity and longevity.  These compounds are found in the stems, skins and seeds of the grape plant.  The most important ones come from the skins, the others are very harsh and bitter.  During the wine making, the stems are removed before crushing and the grapes are pressed very slowly as to not break the seeds and release the bitter oils.   Another, but less important source of tannins come from the actual wood from where the wine was aged.

The tannic “backbone” is the main reason why some wines will have a lifespan spineof 2 years and some for over 20.  The quality and balance of tannin can make all of the difference, but be careful.  A wine that seems exceedingly tannic is also not good.  Like I’ve said in other posts, it is not the strength of one particular characteristic that makes a wine, but how all of these components are meshed together.

Tannins are in a class of chemical compounds called polyphenols.  At the heart of the molecule is a phenol molecule, which is a benzene ring with a hydroxyl group attached to it.  In any event, it is a highly reactive molecule.  Bonds are constantly broken and created during a wines life and no one really knows how tannins help a wine age.  There is the notion that the smaller tannin molecules come together to make larger molecules, and they eventually fall out of solution to form the sediment sometimes seen in old wines.    The exact opposite could also happen whereby the tannins get smaller.  In any effect, as a wine ages the tannins get softer, silkier and less perceivable.

Tannins provide me with a level of enjoyment that I cant get from white wines.  Don’t get me wrong I love white wines for their acid,  but sometimes you just need that tannic red wine with a grilled steak. Tannic wines are great with grilled red meats, stews, braises, and older cheeses.  The tannins provide a counter balance to strong flavors of these dishes and are good at wiping the inside of your mouth clean, preparing it for the next round.

unripegrapesA neat little story before we go. There is a reason for everything that exists in our world, including tannins.  Remember that grape vines are wild plants and existed long before humans and WILL continue to exist long after we are gone.  Plants have a myriad of biochemical, physical, and evolutionary processes that have helped them survive for this long.  One of the main goals of the grape vine is to survive and reproduce.  When the fruits of the vine are young they are green, acidic, bitter and very TANNIC.  This is to insure that the berries make it to their full ripeness.  Would you like to eat something that tasted like that?  Well , neither would any animal that also might be hungry.  During the maturation of the berry, they change to a beautiful color, become less tannic, sweeter, and less acidic.  Now they are ready to be consumed by an array of different animals so that they can eat,digest, and scatter the seeds all over the world.

This concludes the series on the physical components of wine. Thanks for reading and staying interested!

Acidhead cont.(for Geeks and Nerds Only)

This post might get a little geeky on you, so beware.

The strength of acids are based on a logarithmic scale called pH. The “p” stands for log and the H stands for the concentration of hydrogen ions in a solution.  A neutral pH is that of 7.0, which is water.  Anything lower than 7.0 is considered an acid and above is considered a base.  We get that “sour” feeling from acids because there  is a molecule of hydrogen(a proton, they like to say) that is attached to the acid.  Depending on how easily this proton can come detached from the acid is a measure of how strong it is.  The stronger the bond the weaker the acid, the weaker the bond the stronger.  The more of these lone protons in a solution the stronger the acid.  Table wines usually have a pH of between 3.3 and 3.7, and sweet wines around 2.9.

Believe it or not, sweet wines actually have more total acidity than dry table wines.  Because these wines are so sweet they need a lot of acid to balance out all that sugar.  Total acidity in wines like this can be as high a 1%.

Tomorrow’s post will wrap up this series and will conclude with tannins.

The “Rough” Times: Acidhead Part 1

rough sandpaper

rough sandpaper

The “rough” parts of wine acid and tannin are crucial for adding structure, backbone, uniqueness and longevity to wine. If you have ever slurped some vinegar then you not that harsh sensation that I am talking about. By the way, vinegar is derived from the Old French word vin aigre, meaning “sour wine”.

Now we are getting into my favorite part about wine, the acid. Acid comes from the Latin word acidus, meaning “sour”. If you’re like me and love slightly under ripe fruit, lemonade, sour patch kids, vinegar, and citrus fruits then you too will enjoy this post.  If you don’t then you might as well leave now.sourgummy

Some people say that variety is the spice of life, well I say that acid is the spice of life.  It plays a fundamental role in giving wine flavor, freshness and that so called “interesting” factor. I cant stress enough how crucial acidity is in both red and white wines.  In whites, the proper amount of acids give the wine a fresh, vibrant, focused and clean sensation.  In reds, the acidity  adds character while balancing the darker fruit flavors.  Total acidity in wines fall in the range of .6%.

The principal acids found in wines are tartaric and malic acids, others include acetic, lactic, citric and carbonic.  Tartaric acid (TA) is the most important so we will discuss this in detail.  This type of acid is rarely found in other fruits and is one of the key factors for the suitability of grapes for wine making.  TA is also important for giving wine its longevity.  Wines destined for greatness will always have a solid and sometimes austere core of acidity and tannin that can make them undrinkable at their inception. Tartaric acid can also precipitate out into it’s salts that form on the wine side of  the cork.

The climate plays a huge role in determining the percent of acidity in a grape.  The cells of all living organisms go through  a process called cellular respiration.  The is the biochemical process by which cells break down nutrients  and convert them to energy(ATP).  In warmer climates, cellular respiration is increased  and tartaric and malic acids are lost and sugar is gained through the extra sunlight.  Learn about sugar and photosynthesis here. In cooler climates, the opposite happens, respiration slows down and acids develop while sugars take the back seat.

Cooler climates (Chablis, Champagne, Germany)—-> higher acid/lower sugar

Warmer climates(California, Australia) ——> lower acid/higher sugar.

One more thing before we go.  There is a process called malolactic fermentation that sometimes takes place after the initial alcoholic fermentation. This is when the harsher and rougher malic acid(the acid in apples) is converted into lactic acid(the acid in  by another set of yeasts.  Lactic acid is responsible for giving Chardonnay  its buttery and creamier characteristics.  I think I might have to turn this acid article into a two parter because there are a couple of more things that I would like to talk about, so stay tuned for part 2.

Smooth Vibrations :”Shuga” Daddy

sugarThis is the last article that covers the “round” and “smooth” qualities of wine. We just went over alcohol and now will get into something that everyone on Earth pretty much loves.   Sugar is pretty much our master when you think about it.  We crave it often several times a day and basically can’t live without it, literally.  That sugar fix is always on our mind, whether it can be quenched through a candy bar or a glass of soda, we ALL love sugar to some degree.  We obey, take orders and receive punishment from it all at the same time.  It is only natural and instinctual that we love sugar so there is no one to blame but ourselves for this yearning.

In our beloved elixir of wine, there exists many types of sugars but the two most prominent are glucose and fructose, with fructose being roughly two times as sweet as glucose.  These sugars play a crucial role in determining the wines dryness and overall balance and contribution to taste.

So what is a sugar and how is it formed?  Sugar is a form of a carbohydrate that is broken down in our bodies into ATP and used as fuel for our bodies. While humans can’t make their own own sugars, plants and other autotrophs can .Once again, we will go back to 8th grade and think about photosynthesis, one of the most miraculous and important chemical reactions ever known to exist.  Here is the equation:

Photosynthesis

This is the reaction that removed deadly CO2 from our atmosphere and exchanged it with oxygen. About 3,500 million ago, this reaction elolved in tiny microorganisms and ultimately paved the way for the evolution of life as we know it today..  We should all take a moment, bow and give thanks to this wonderful chemical life giving process……OK enough of that.  When sunlight hits the leaves of the grape vine a whole bunch of reactions take place inside and out of the chloroplasts.  Sugars are formed, broken down and used for energy by the plant.  The principal sugar inside a raw grape is sucrose.  During the ripening of the grape, a phase called veraison, the grapes change color from green to red and the sucrose is converted to glucose and fructose.  These are the sugars that are transformed into ethanol during alcoholic fermentation.  Depending on how long the fermentation is allowed to take

not a grape leaf, but it looked cool

not a grape leaf, but it looked cool

place, either almost all or very little of these sugars can be left.  A wine can be fermented to dryness (.02-.05%) or anywhere up to 1.1% for a sweet wine.  For wines this sweet it is very important to have a right balance of acidity so that the wine does not taste flabby and boring.   Over ripe fruits have these same qualities to give you a comparison. We will get to the importance of acidity in the next post.

We are programmed from birth to find things that are nutritious to be very tasty and things that aren’t to taste bad(like grass, the type that you cut with a mower).  Sugar is actually nutritious and is the main source of energy for our brain and other organs.   It is a highly concentrated energy source without containing any fat!We sense sweet things  on the very tip of the tongue  where the receptors are highly concentrated.  There are 2 hydrogren molecules that stick out from a sugar molecule  and bind to the receptors on our tongue giving us a “sweet” taste.  Saccharine and other artificial sweeteners, although not “real” sugars have these two same hydrogens that give us a sweet

a stitching of what a taste bud looks like

a stitching of what a taste bud looks like

sensation.  Bitter sensations, the opposite sensation of sweetness, have these 2 prongs as well.  These prongs are spaced differently and therefore give us a bitter taste.  The spacial differentiation is about 1.5 angstrom.  An angstrom is approximately the length of 2 hydrogen atoms.  If you read the post on water you know how small molecules and atoms are.You can line up 500,000 hydrogen atoms shoulder to shoulder and they still would be able to hide behind a single human hair!  So as you can see, 1.5 angstroms is unbelievably small and is testament to how intricate, precise and minute the levels of our biochemisrty are.  So cheers to that and cheers to sweet wines because they are pretty darn delicious.

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