Posts Tagged ‘tannin’

Surface Area 51

So I recently had to opportunity to eat some ripe and ready wine grapes.  This has been a craving of mine for a very long time.  I have tasted hundreds of wines but never an actual wine grape ready to be crushed.

grape clusters 001

Can you tell which is which?

In my wine class I was presented with two grape bunches just picked from the Frescobaldi Estate.  My teacher, Diletta Frescobaldi is one of the current owners of the Frescobaldi wine enterprise, so she had no problem takng some grapes from the vineyards.  One of them was Cabernet Sauvignon and the other Petit Verdot.  Without knowing which was which, it was pretty easy to determine their identities just from sight.

Cabernet Sauvignon grapes usually  make a dense, dark and tannic wine.  All of these attributes mainly come from the skins.  The berries of this cluster, were very small and tightly packed.   Flavor on the palate was  sweet, medium acidity but with a thick skin.  The one flavor that stood out was a strong green pepper taste.  Italian Cabernets tend to develop these green pepper nuances, especially wines in the north. The Petit Verdot berries were much larger and not densely packed.  On the palate they were much more acidic and less flavorful.  The skin was also not as thick.  Both were just down right delicious and only wish you could find these regularly in the store.

The reason for Cabernet Sauvignon’s high tannin content is due to small size of the berry.  Think about it.  The ratio of  skin to pulp is higher in smaller berries than it is for larger ones so the resulting wine will have less juice  for the same amount of tannin. This is partly the reason  for Cabernet’s high tannin content in conjunction with its thick skin.

225 liter barriques

small oak barrels

The concempt of  high surface area to volume ratio is also used when aging wine.  Traditional French barriques hold  225 liters.  Other wooden vessels can hold 1000’s of liters. It is up to the winemaker to decide the level of oak influence.  When wine is aged in small barrels, the surface area of wine exposed to the oak is significantly higher than that of larger barrels.  This can be a problem when the wine is left to age for too long.  The oak can dominate the flavor of a wine and the balance is completely thrown off.  When done right, French/American barriques can impart delicious sweet spice flavor to a wine as well give the wine a nice softness and roundness.

big and small barrels at Altesino Winery

big and small barrels at Altesino Winery

The traditional method of aging wine in wood is done through the use of the bigger barrels, like the ones to your right.  These are the vats where the Brunellos are held prior to bottling at the Altesino Winery.  These larger oak barrels because of their low surface area to volume ratio impart subtle oak flavors and tend to leave a rougher, more rustic style of wine.

Balance is Key

L. V.  writes

Francesco:
Here is one for you… many people enjoy wine at dinner but most believe that drinking different wines with different courses is a sure way of getting drunk or sick. Especially when offering whites and reds and finishing with a Sauternes. Can you give us your thoughts?

Thanks.

I hear this so often and the bottom line is – YOU GET SICK WHEN YOU DRINK ENTIRELY TOO MUCH.  Frankly, anyone that hasn’t had a sparkling, white, red, and Sauternes (sweet wine) in one dinner is missing out on life.  OK so having 4 bottles of wine between two people is not such a god idea, but a glass of each with 6-7 other people is a great dining experience.  Not only do you get to taste different styles of wine but you also will have great company to share your experience.  Wines were made to be drank with food and friends, and finding the perfect food/wine combinations can be a symphony for you palate.

The best wines are the best wines because they are perfectly balanced.  When you begin to drink more wines you will start noticing that the wines you like are usually the ones that are in equilibrium with itself.  In wine, 4 things must be insync to create a harmonious elixir; alcohol and sugar on one side and acid and tannin on the other.  It comes down to the smooth components (alcohol/ sugar) vs. the rough(acid/tannin). You are probably thinking “Alcohol, that’s not smooth”.  I’m sure you have taken a shot of vodka before now compare that feeling to taking a shot of vinegar.   The alcohol has viscosity and “roundness” while vinegar has the opposite flavor sensation.

marble

Everything in life is one big balancing act.  We are alive right now because everything that came  before us was balanced on a perfect string.  If our moon was ever so slightly bigger there would be mass flooding through out the world.  If the tilt of the Earth was .5 of a degree in the wrong direction, the sun would sizzle us like eggs in a frying pan.   There must be balance in everything we do from drinking to eating to having fun and being serious. Next time you are outside stop and take a look around, everything you see is there because of the trillions of balancing acts going on this very second.  I think we should follow in “their” footsteps.

As you can see, wine has the ability to transcend its barriers as just being an alcoholic beverage.  In fact, anything that ignites passion has this same effect.  What are you guys passionate about?

The Importance of “Vintage”

In today’s post I will be discussing  the importance of a wine’s vintage in relation to this question asked by Joe S. ,”The knowledge area I have the least expertise in is knowing which vintage of a wine are “drink now” and which need to be aged. Can you please speak to this issue in future postings.”

A wine’s vintage can be a very important factor in determining when the right time has come to pop that special bottle or even in buying a particular wine.  Most bottles of wine that you come across will have a year printed on the label.  There will be exceptions to this rule like for some non-vintage (NV) champagnes and some “jug” wines.  The year  that is printed on the label is the vintage for that particular wine which means that the grapes were harvested in that year.

“Wine is sunlight held together by water.” – Galileo Galilei.

redwine This is one of my favorite wine quotes because it is so   simple yet undeniably true.  It basically says that all wines are products of their environment.  The weather where the grapes are grown ultimately determines the quality of the wine sunproduced that year.   A philosophy that I ascribe myself to is that great wines are made in the vineyard, not in the winery.  The reason why some vintages of a particular wine are better than others has to do with the weather of that year.  In order to produce a great wine all factors in relation to weather must be in perfect balance.  Most important are the day/night temperatures and the amount of rain that the vines receive. A perfectly balanced vintage along with other factors can create a wine that has the capability of living for waterat least 20 years. In the realm of vintages, basically four types exist: balanced, too hot, too cold, and too much rain.  However, we all know that the climate in California is going to  be different than weather in France, so one must take into account that climate in a vintage is only relative to the location of where the grapes are grown.

A too hot of a vintage ripens the grapes too fast.  Grapes need a long steady maturation in order for the acids, sugars, and tannins to be in the right balance. Imagine for example you are cooking a stew.  So instead of slow cooking the stew for a couple of hours you put all the ingredients in the pot at one time and put the flame on high for 30 minutes.  We all know that this stew will taste like garbage.  The flavors would not have had enough time to develop and some parts would probably be burnt and what not.  Well this is what happens in grapes as well.  The sugars develop really fast while the tannins and acids take the back seat.  The resulting wine will be very fruity but will not have the other ingredients to make a balanced product.  Hot vintages like those of 2003, which happened to affect most wines produced in that year, will produce  a wine with a lower than average cellaring capabilty, due to the lack of acid and tannin.

In a vintage that is too cold, the grapes do not fully mature leaving them with a high acid/ low sugar content and a “greenish” quality in the tannins.  These wines are very tart and would be like tasting an unripe fruit in simple terms.

Grape vines typically produce their best fruit when they under some stress. A year that is too rainy makes it too easy for the vines to produce grapes.  The grapes then become diluted with water and lack flavor and concentration.  Rains are especially bad right before or during a harvest.  The vines suck up the rain and the grapes take on a certain wateryness, <—-this is definitely not a word, which again dilutes the flavor of the grape.  Ever eat a fruit with no flavor?   The same thing can happen in wine.

So with all this being said, when is the right time to drink a wine and which vintages should I buy?  Most wines on the shelves are ready to drink now or within a couple of years of the vintage.   It would be impossible to list drink dates for all wines from around the world.  Usually the more expensive wines need some time to mature before being opened depending on the year.  If anyone has a bottle like this just let me know and I will  tell you when to pop it.